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To unscrew this end of the compression cross bolt on Sako AIIIs and AVs (L691s).



Do I just hire someone to turn a piece of cold rolled steel to the same diameter as this fastener, then drill appropriate diameter holes with the same spacing as the two holes, then solder in two pieces of steel rod that protrude 3/16" or so. Finally mill two flats in the rolled steel bar appropriate for a wrench to turn the unit?

For a 9/16" wrench, what distance between the flats would allow the correct amount of ease in fitting the wrench? Thanks.

Will also try my snap ring pliers when I find them.


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by lawndart:
To unscrew this end of the compression cross bolt on Sako AIIIs and AVs (L691s).



Do I just hire someone to turn a piece of cold rolled steel to the same diameter as this fastener, then drill appropriate diameter holes with the same spacing as the two holes, then solder in two pieces of steel rod that protrude 3/16" or so. Finally mill two flats in the rolled steel bar appropriate for a wrench to turn the unit?

For a 9/16" wrench, what distance between the flats would allow the correct amount of ease in fitting the wrench? Thanks.


Yup, or Brownells sells one Wink
 
Posts: 2357 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I couldn't find it in Brownells. Could you give me their stock/identification number? Thanks. Is it the same size as the Mauser cross bolt?


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Just drill two holes the same size as the holes in the pin in a flat, 1/8" or so thick bar of steel the right distance apart, and insert the non-fluted end of two appropriately sized drill bits through the holes. use a long narrow piece of steel, vaguely like a small wrench in size. For that matter, you could drill two holes in one jaw of a small open end wrench. This should be a 5 minute tool to make and use. No need to make it very sophisticated or to solder in the pins.
 
Posts: 1104 | Location: Eastern Oregon | Registered: 02 December 2007Reply With Quote
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coffee

Snap ring pliers.

Or buy the tool. Be forewarned it only fits a few cross bolts. Not many. But maybe you have the right one.
https://www.brownells.com/guns...-wrench-prod416.aspx


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Many thanks to you all.

I need to find the snap ring pliers to take the magazine spring retainer out of my Benelli M2 sometime before duck season. Last time I used a flat bladed screwdriver, the retainer launched long and hard. It took a while too find it. Thanks.


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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the retainer launched long and hard. It took a while too find it. Thanks.


Gun springs tend to land in the oddest places.
 
Posts: 19457 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I take old flat head screw drivers and grind out the middle to make spanners for stock bolt screws. A few minutes with a dremel does the trick.

Snap ring pliers work as well, I just can never find them in the tool chest when I need them. The modified screw drivers don't walk off since they are pretty worthless for general screw turning.

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1480 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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I think I have 4 or 5 special spanners in my tool box I have had to make to fit various cross bolts and firing pin bushings. Wast you described first will work


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Cusom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5508 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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If you use the snap ring pliers put a couple of layers of masking tape around the screw head to protect the wood in case you slip.
 
Posts: 3717 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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You may want to get an adjustable wrench, drill an appropriate diameter hole in each jaw. solder in that same size pin in each and have one that is adjustable.
 
Posts: 367 | Location: South east Georgia | Registered: 16 September 2005Reply With Quote
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I too use flat blade screwdrivers ground to fit them, but yours is so big that you will have to make a special one. As indicated there are many ways to skin it.
Or snap ring pliers but the teeth on them are usually small for these nuts. Looks like someone has already used a too small one on this one; see the burrs on it .
 
Posts: 17192 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I do the same as Farbedo. Makes a good solid tool you can put some power behind. Like he says, just takes a short time to make.
Phil
 
Posts: 355 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 09 July 2008Reply With Quote
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Thank you all for the ideas. I will use the mill to drill appropriately spaced holes in the open edge of a wrench. Nice would be a slight interference fit - heat the wrench head, and cool the ass end of the correct size drill bit (s).
Yeah Tom, someone at the factory must have slipped when he tightened the cap piece. Usually, if I bugger up something, it is on the side of loosening the piece.


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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