My new Mauser, as well as the CZs I checked out, all squirt oil in my eye when dry fired. Good thing I wear glasses.

I think it's reasonable to guess this is a sign of over-lubrication in the firing pin/spring/bolt shroud assembly.

After I strip and degrease, how much is enough?

Oil it down good and then blow it out with a air hose, that usually about right...Actually dry is probably best for hunting..

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

I have found that a good rule of thumb is this--parts that are on the inside (not normally visible) get a light coat of grease. Tetra-lube has always worked well for me. Parts on the outside get a light coat of oil. I apply it like this: After cleaning, I put drops of oil on the metal, then move it around with a dry clean patch. Afterward, a single wipe with a clean cloth finishes the job.

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Happiness is a 200 yard bughole.

I have seen missed shots in cold country due to slow firing pins. I'd rather it wear out than do that to me.

I usually clean the bolt inside and out with acetone, then wipe the innards with Tetra-oil, then wipe it as dry as I can get with a dry patch. I let it dry, wipe it again with a dry patch and assemble.

I then oil the outside of the bolt and, (if I'm not headed to dry country) put a tiny film of grease on the mating face of the locking lugs.

If I'm expecting blowing sand and dust the whole works is wiped as dry as I can get it. You make grinding compound by trapping silicates in oil!

Don

Hey Don,

That's how us poor boys get our locking lugs hand lapped!LOL.

BigBores,

Yep, I have some Texas rifles like that.

BTW, I just had my Win M70 bolt apart. I forgot one surface. It's very important to lube the camming surface at the back of the bolt where the cocking piece rides. I put a very light coat of grease on that surface also - again unless I'm in dusty conditions.

Don