My gunsmith has removed the retaining pin but the barrel apparently refuses to budge. Anyone had experience with these and know how to proceed?

Cheers.

GG

No personal knowledge, but some makers, notably Browning, have been using thread locker type material on the barrel-action joint. Possibly judicious application of heat with a heat gun may help. I have read of Brownings with the threads literally stripped out by gorilla type "gunsmiths". Goatwhiskers

Try heating up to around 212° in a boiling hot water bath or slightly higher to ~250° or freezing or do a few heat/cold cycles. I had to do the same with two XP-100 with Remingtons famous "Gorilla snot".

Sometimes heating then dowsing with ice cold water, alternating sides, a few times helps break loose the adhesive.

Otherwize it is cutting a relief groove with a thin cutoff tool or forgetting it and swapping guns.

LUCK

Thanks guys. Will let you know how we go.

GG

Another thing I just thought of: if it has a retaining pin the barrel is probably pressed in, with or without splines, so engineering a way to put pressure against the rear of the barrel might be in order. Goatwhiskers

I made a simple tool using the lathe. It is a simple cylinder of steel about 4" long y 2" OD with a hole in the center that will fit over the stripped barrel but is small enough to get a good purchase on the front of the action. Basically, it is a slide hammer. I use plastic tape to protect the barrel unless it is going to be refinished anyway. Sometimes, heat is also required. I have never had a barrel that resisted this tool & the heat. Could be made of brass if you have large enough stock available.

Which Kimber?

The M82 barrels from Oregon were threaded, the only cross pin was for the scope in the dovetail for a recoil stop.

The M84's made in Oregon were threaded as well.

At least all the ones I saw in the factory in 1987 - 1991

J Wisner

The New York 22's have pressed in barrels. Sucks, but its true.

Guys

Yep - it is a New York built rifle.

Mike, I can visualise the tool you described - but not how it works. Would you mind elaborating? Ta.

Cheers.

GG

Why not press it out. A stout flat or cylinder of steel with a hole just to give clearance for the barrel but not to the receiver. Hang barrel down in a hydraulic press and a close fitting steel rod down through the receiver to press out the barrel. A bit of heat on the receiver will help. Just has to push that barrel out.

quote:

Originally posted by eagle27:
Why not press it out. A stout flat or cylinder of steel with a hole just to give clearance for the barrel but not to the receiver. Hang barrel down in a hydraulic press and a close fitting steel rod down through the receiver to press out the barrel. A bit of heat on the receiver will help. Just has to push that barrel out.

That's the way I'd do it and if a press wasn't available thread two holes in the plate and make an arrangement like a steering wheel puller. Two threaded rods into the plate (1/2" thick or more), a bar with two through holes for the rod and a tapped center hole. For the pusher rod on the back of the barrel, brass or a brass tipped steel rod would be best to keep from marring the back of the barrel. Other end has a 60 degree pilot hole. Put a cone tip on the center pusher screw and grease all the threads and contact points and have at it.

I had one of these in their Superamerica version. Bought used but in mint condition. Looked great but would at best shoot 2" at 50 yards. Barrel leaded terribly. Sent it back to them to be rebarreled (assumed that they knew what they were doing). Called and told me that they had ruined the action taking the barrel off and would send me a new new action as well (which cost me $75 CA transfer fee and a 10 day wait!) The new one didn't shoot any better than the old one. Ditched it at a gunshow, bought an Anchutz that shoots 0.3-0.4 most days. My advice is to tie a rope to it, throw it over the side of the boat and then let go of the rope.