Hi i have done a fair bit of checkering but never flat top checkering
I would like to try flat top checkering but need information on the tools
Any help or information would be appropriated
Thanks Sydney

Pending more authoritative opinions, I'm not sure there's necessarily any difference in the tool, just how far you take them.

I've had a double-row, 20-lines-per-inch Herters tool for many years that I found fine for flat-top 'English' chequering, and I found it much less likely to go down to pointed diamonds than the Dem-Bart set I used recently.

The Dem-Bart tools have fine teeth and work very smoothly but I find the shortness of the heads means there's no Swede's-compass aspect to keep them on line.

Try this....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhaAAnomYaY

....hope it works

Roger

You can use any of the spacer tools to lay out the lines of your work, just like you normally would. But to deepen the lines I use a 60 degree liner instead of the 90 degree one. By doing this the peaks don't come together so quickly and you can get the flat tops easier. A little practice will get you pretty good at it.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
The Dem-Bart tools have fine teeth and work very smoothly but I find the shortness of the heads means there's no Swede's-compass aspect to keep them on line.

sam, What do you mean by Swede's-compass aspect ?
bb

I never met anyone who likes flat top checkering. The point of checkering is to have, points.

Many of my vintage British shotguns have flat top checkering.

Flat top checkering actually does give a nice grip..not too aggressive, but certainly not smooth"

I make my own tools using a very steep angle..almost like a very thin saw blade with just a bit of "draft" Borders are not real easy, I settled on a thin graver.

Flat top does not lend itelf to power checkering except first spacing pass

Hi Duane I have a electric checkering tool-are you using it to space lines ??
I was worried i would cut too deep
Could you give me an idea of the tool you are using
Thanks Sydney

You can do a passable job with 60 degree cutters but to get them really flat, you will need to make a tool out of a small piece of very thin saw blade, eg from a coping saw. Flat top work is VERY unforgiving. You have to get it perfectly right the first time. No filing away your mistakes.

quote:

Originally posted by bigbull:

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
The Dem-Bart tools have fine teeth and work very smoothly but I find the shortness of the heads means there's no Swede's-compass aspect to keep them on line.

sam, What do you mean by Swede's-compass aspect ?
bb

A Swede's compass is apparently an American term for a long pole carried under one arm when walking in the woods, to keep you more-or-less going straight and not around in circles.

I found the Dem-Bart tool good on the rare concave surface but, because our arms don't run on rails, too prone to left-hand drift on long lines.