I've never messed with a Savage 110 (or other numbers in this series), but with the accutrigger and economical price, it looks like it might be a good candidate for building a custom varminter on. I'm thinking in terms of a wildcat 6mm.

What is involved in replacing the barrel on a 110? I'm under the impression that a reasonbly handy non-gunsmith can remove and replace the barrel with the right tools. Is this correct?

If you're planning on using a pre-thread/pre-chambered barrel or a Savage factory barrel, the only thing needed is a barrel nut wrench, blocks to hold the action and headspace gauges (at least a NO-GO gauge). The lug is keyed for the action and the barrel nut simply locks the barrel down when you have set the headspace. I believ MidwayUSA has all the necessary tools.

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Originally posted by Stonecreek:
I've never messed with a Savage 110 (or other numbers in this series), but with the accutrigger and economical price, it looks like it might be a good candidate for building a custom varminter on. I'm thinking in terms of a wildcat 6mm.

What is involved in replacing the barrel on a 110? I'm under the impression that a reasonbly handy non-gunsmith can remove and replace the barrel with the right tools. Is this correct?

Swapping barrels on the Savage is a piece of cake for anyone with the right tools. You will need a wrench to remove the barrel nut, and either a headspace gauge, or, a formed cartridge case for which to set the barrel.

Loosen the barrel nut, unscrew and remove the barrel, install the barrel nut on the replacement barrel and begin threading the replacement barrel into the receiver. Insert the proper gauge, or, case with the bolt in the closed position, and continue screwing the barrel in until it comes to a stop against the gauge, or, case. Tighten the barrel nut and recheck the headspace.

Unless you have a fireformed case you'll want the reamer grinder to make you gauge to match the chamber. You'll still need a vise with soft jaws of some sort to hold tha barreled action while tightening/loosening.

Unless this is just for grins you can always put away the barrel nut and have the barrel screwed on like a Remington. I usually did that when I rebarreld my Savages and got even better accuracy.

Thanks, guys, now who/where would you go for a barrel of decent quality chambered for something like 6mm AI? Actually, I'd like to use the 57mm case, but could afford to give up some neck length and put it in the shoulder in order to maximize case capacity. Would probably start with .257 or 7x57 brass in order to create a "false" shoulder on which to headspace the initial firing. Anyone know where to find such a reamer (without the cost of having one made)?

Stonecreek - MidwayUSA has the barrel (http://www.midwayusa.com/esearch.exe/search?TabID=4&category_selector=all_products&search_keywords=savage+barrel&Click+to+Begin+Search.x=14&Click+to+Begin+Search.y=10) and I know they have all the necessary tools, wrenches, gauges, etc. Tiggertate is right when he says you can use a fireformed case but, where will you get it? I have the reamer and the gauges that I would let you use for the shipping. I would suggets you use the Adams & Bennet .243 WIN barrel as it would be more likely cleaned up by the 6 m/m AI reamer than the 6 m/m REM chamber. Malm may have a better take on that than me. I have made several 6 m/m AI and they are good shooters and will reach out and touch any varmint out to 400 yards or so.