I have a 98 with a heavy barrel chambered in 308. I would like to rebarrel it to 260 or 7mm08. The 308 barrel has plenty of life left in it, that's why I'm thinking switch barrel. Are these actions good for a switch barrel rifles?

Rem. 222

Hi,

I was just thinking the same thing. I have a friend who likes a lot of different calibers and when I suggested a switch barrel, I thought I was going to have to put him in a straight jacket. He didn't know that you could set up a rifle so you only had to change barrels. A 98 Mauser seems like a good choice. As long as the barrels all have the same contour. We're going to start with a 243 win and then a 6.5/06. Maybe even a 22/250. When you have the action, stock, and scope, all you need is the barrels. I have a switch barrel 788 Remington and love the idea that I can change the barrels when I want to.

Good luck on your project, The Big Dog

If you plan on buying your own gunsmithing tools (barrel vise, action wrench, etc) then it is a standard procedure.
If you want it so that you can change barrels quickly in the field, it is a complicated project on the 98. Most gunsmiths charge $5K or more for just a rifle, and at least $1K per extra barrel.

Kurt C.
I think you need to do a little research on the cost of building a mauser. $5,000.00 for a rifle? Maybe out of Fred Wells shop with a presentation grade stock and engraving by Rachel Wells! And anybody that would charge $1,000.00 for a second barrel would be guilty of rape!!!
Unless you are talking about a take-down rifle with interchangeable barrels. A simple switch barrel would'nt cost near $5000.00

[ 02-23-2003, 20:19: Message edited by: Jim White ]

Kurt,
What's the reason for such expense for a switch barrel Mauser? To your ?'s yes I do plan on purchasing a barrel vise and action wrench. I wouldn't want to take it to a smith and wait a month to get the barrels switched. I could save a few bucks and clamp the action in the old trusty shop vise and unscrew the barrel with the old 36"BMFPW.

Rem. 222

Much easier and cost effective to use the Savage 110 action.

Right now you can pick up used 110's in excellent condition for around $200.00.

Rem.222

The problem with a quick change m98 barrel is the locking mechanism. The gunsmith has to "design" a locking mechanism that will ensure perfect headspace each and every time. This can be even more complicated if the barrels will have iron sights. The quick-change idea is defeated if the rifle will require rezeroing each time the barrel is changed.

Other quick change designs, such as the Mauser 66 and the Blaser 93, utilize a bolt that locks into the barrel extension. This guarantees proper headspacing. The 98 can be rebuilt in this fashion, but you are talking the price of a new car.

If you are going to acquire your own shop tools, then all you need is a witness mark on the underside of the barrel to ensure headspace. Also, it is a lot safer to clamp the barrel in the vise and use an action wrench for doing the turning.

[ 02-23-2003, 21:01: Message edited by: KurtC ]

Good point Terry. I can pick up a Savage 110FP 308 for $300 like new. The only thing is that I have the Mauser action and a McMillan HBR stock (that's being repainted with flames) already. By using the Mauser action I'm only out the cost of a barrel, action wrench, barrel vise, and smithing.
With the Savage I'm out the cost of another McMillan, plus the $300 for the rifle.

Rem. 222

Kurt,
Thanks for the clarification. I hadn't thought about a quick change in the field rifle. The old slow method of using the vise and wrench is good enough for me.

Rem. 222

The mauser, with it's inner shoulder against which the barrel abuts, is actually a pretty good basis for a switch barrel or a take down. One system I have seen split the receiver ring and used a crossbolt to lock the barrel in place. The recoil lug was built up on the front to provide a location for the crossbolt. Other systems use a latch mechanism or a lug built into the forend much like the Savage 99 takedowns.
When it comes to switching barrels the Savage 110 is no better than most and in fact the barrel nut may complicate things to some extent. On most actions the headspace is controlled by the dimensions of the barrel tenon. The shoulder is always in the same place. With a mauser the barrel always bottoms out in the same place and headspace is necessarily the same. Some difficulty does arise with iron sights though since one can over torque and end up with the sights cocked. This is the reason for a latch mechanism. The split receiver handles this problem best since it can, to a certain extent, compensate for wear. Regards, Bill.

Rem. 222,

What if instead of a switch barrel rifle you build a switch action rifle? That is, find another Mauser receiver (the same as yours) and barrel it with the .260 or 7mm-08 barrel having a contour identical to your .308 barrel. Have this barreled receiver headspaced to your .308 bolt and add an adjustable trigger. Install a one-piece scope mount so the actions could share the same scope if you want or install a seperate scope. Both actions could share the same magazine, bottom metal and stock. Now you can drop two screws, switch actions and be shooting another caliber!

This would cost a mere fraction of a custom switch barrel job and take a lot less time to perform than the wrench routine. All you would need is a screwdriver. This could easily be done in the field.

Figure $200 for a new barrel, $50 for the action, $20 for the scope base and $40 for the trigger. Add $100 to a "smithy" to install and headspace and drill and tap and you are in business. Oops, I forgot blueing. Add another $50. So, for around $500 you could swap calibers. That's only a little more that what you would pay for the barrel, finishing and tools to remove/install it. That's also about what you could pay for another rifle in the caliber you want. But hey, it would be way more cool to switch!

Bobster,
That's a neat idea. Only if I knew what 98 action I have. I traded for the rifle about 3 years ago. The person I traded with thought it is a Husquvarna (sp?). I didn't think they made a 98 action, but I'm not an expert on Mausers. The only ID on the reciever is some #'s on the left side of the reciever.

Rem. 222

Rem. 222,

All early and late production Husqvarna rifles were of small ring, M96 variant design. The early ones were mainly sporterized M96's and the later ones contained some M98 features. Check the top of the receiver ring for the word SWEDEN and the Husqvarna Crown trademark. Also check the bottom for the word
NITRO and a proof mark. Left rail is solid with no thumb cut. Tang safety on right side. Later models will have HVA ACTION--MADE IN SWEDEN stamped on the left receiver wall.

If you don't find these marks and features then you don't have a Husqvarna. If possible, post a picture on this forum and I guarantee someone will ID it.
If it is a Husqvarna it is unlikely you would find another.

Bobster,
I will email you a pic of the rifle. I don't think you will be able to tell much. This thing has been parkerized. Like I said before the only numbers are on the left side of the receiver. I do know for sure it is a 98.

Rem. 222

Bobster,
You have mail.

[ 02-25-2003, 02:36: Message edited by: Rem. 222 ]

You could probably do it with two barrels and to two bolts (same boltface diam). Install barrel "A" and headspace with bolt "A". Witness mark barrel to action. Install barrel "B" and headspace with bolt "B". Witness mark again. ID the witness marks and DON'T get them confused!!!

If you really want a switch barrel rifle go with a Rem 700. Easy to set up,my gunsmith charges 100 extra to set this up while rebarreling a Rem700.

Kevin,
I plan on doing that in the future. I have a 700 chambered in 6mmBR. I would like to have a 22BR barrel chambered and fitted for it.
I also have a 600 chambered in .222 I'm thinking about having a .222 Rem. Mag barrel chambered for it also.
If only I were a rich man.

Rem. 222

[ 02-28-2003, 03:37: Message edited by: Rem. 222 ]

Here is what I have done. Start with a Mauser 98 action and two barrels. Alter both barrels to the proper headspace, either by using a chambering reamer if they have short chambers, or facing off the chamber end and shoulder if the headspace is initially too long. While "witness marks" aren't a bad idea, the barrel will wobble if not screwed in all the way anyways, so I'm not sure what good the witness marks will do. Drill and tap a small hole at the bottom of the receiver for an allen screw to keep the barrel in tight. An action wrench is not required - hand tight is sufficient with a Model 98 to insure proper headspace. Barrels can be changed at the range if desired. The procedure is most easily done using sporter barrels with no sights of their own - add in a front sight that needs to be oriented precidely in the vertical, and the situation becomes more complicated.

The biggest problem with the concept is trying to use a single scope with two different barrels. By careful handloading, you can get two different calibers to shoot to a single point of aim, but that is usually a compromise on one or both loads.

Another thing I have tried is to use Weaver mounted scopes that can be taken on and off reasonably easily, and have a different one for each caliber. Of course, after changing out both barrel and scope, you can't just assume that the rifle will shoot to exactly the same point of aim that it did before - some sighting in is required each time you change.

The procedure has worked for me - I have three rifles that are like this. I can't guarantee it will work for everyone, but it can be done by a reasonably competent home gunsmith.

I must be missing something? I used to think that barrels had to be tighten to a crush fit. Then when I was shooting a 1000yd benchrest match, I was watching guys change barrels between matches. Their barrel were little more than hand tight. They'd put their barrel in hand tight then snug them down with a small action wrench that when into the bolt jugs. the barrel vice was two pieces of aluminum with a grove in it and some rubber to keep from marking the barrel. These guys would change barrels so they could shoot in a different class. I was told by several benchrest shooters that the barrels olny need to be snug, not chush fitted like most factory rifles.

On a mauser, you have a shoulder and a base to seat against. You should have no problem making a switch barrel out of that action

The Big Dog

Rem 222

Check out the post {Pillar bedding a Rem 788} on this forum. John Rick's has a picture of my 788 switch barrel that he built. This gun shoots awesome. He would be the guy I would ask about turning your gun into a switch barrel.

The Big Dog