Get a grip. You can never have enough parts. The extractor on a Mauser (Steyr) I'm finishing has a loose grip on the rim of the case. Open the bolt and the cartridges fell off. 2 extractor swaps later and I think it's all fixed.

Rifle likes 140gr and I4350. I think.

Is it also acceptable to tap (bend) the end of the extractor closer to the bolt face???

Yes.
Also can try swapping collars to gain more tension.

quote:

Originally posted by richj:
Get a grip. You can never have enough parts. The extractor on a Mauser (Steyr) I'm finishing has a loose grip on the rim of the case. Open the bolt and the cartridges fell off. 2 extractor swaps later and I think it's all fixed.

Rifle likes 140gr and I4350. I think.

Is it also acceptable to tap (bend) the end of the extractor closer to the bolt face???

Any Mauser extractor I have seen will break before it bends

Come on down and I will show you a few dozen that won't.

Go with dpcd..

He will probably agree:
Make sure the inside of the extractor at the collar seat is free of any dirt that would cause it to be seated too far forward.
Next:
Collars wear along the edges and loosen up inside as well. You will feel any slop moving the extractor fore and aft with the bolt out.
As for tips, I found them not to be hard, the 3 I had stoned & polished according to Duane Wiebe's direction did not feel hard or brittle.
Go with dpcd.
My experience with any bending is that go slowly, take your time, checking clearance every couple of taps with a light hammer and a piece of thin hardwood so you don't go too far. Bending back & forth just one time can cause a crack or weaken the metal real quick.

It's a spring. Get it red hot over 1350 where you want the bend to be, bend it, get the whole thing red hot again, quench and temper.