I would like to buy some of the carbide tools from J&R Engineering, as well as some of the gunline cutters...and would like to get the most out of these tools before replacing them, especially while learning.

Can anyone give me some pointers on how to sharpen the cutters?

Thanks!

They are so inexpensive that I just buy new replacement cutters.
Regards, Joe

Thanks J.D. In your experience how long do the carbide cutters last for as opposed to the regular type cutters?

One they are basically unsharpenable. at least from a conventional stand point.

And like Joe said they're cheep

Two carbide will out last HSS four to one when cutting steel. And about the same on wood as it is quite abrasive.

What KC said, about 4 to 1, carbide is what I always buy if it's available.

One caveat: it pays to closely inspect the cutting edges under a glass, from all angles, before beginning with a new insert. I have found 2 carbide pointer-longs with improperly-sharpened blades, those suckers were cutting double lines ~0.005" apart and it took me forever to figure out that it was the insert and not my hamfistedness. FWIW I've never had that problem with anything but carbide.

BTW I like the W.E.Brownell see-through tool the best, BY FAR!
Regards, Joe

For me, the carbide cutters outlast steel by far more than 4 to 1, but I'm sure that depends on the wood you're cutting. I just wish the source for carbide cutters was more reliable.

Thanks for the replies!

The only carbide cutters I can find are J&E Engineering, which come as a complete tool. Where can I buy carbide cutters to use with the Brownells handle? Searched a lot on the internet but couldnt find any suppliers. Any one know where these are available?

Pay the price and get the carbide cutters. I have been using J & R cutters for over twenty years. All of my work has been spaced with the MMC power tool using carbide. I have not bought the spacer tools for hand spacing.

I have found that you can touch up these cutters with the Eze Lap diamond steel sold by Brownells. I use the fine grit diamond and remove the metal from the plastic handle. File a knife edge so the diamonds can get into the bottom of the cutters. I have to use a number 10 OptiVisor to see this up close. I wouldn't spend the extra money to get carbide at first, but this was a mistake. I have also touched up the W E Brownell cutters which have a wide space between the cutting edge. I use a small diamond file on these before I switched to carbide.

The new carbide cutters are harder to use than one that has been touched up. I suppose that when you sharpen it changes some on the contact with the wood just enough to allow for the cutter to work easier for me.

Thanks Les, thats just the info I was looking for.