Does anyone know who does that sort of work? My father and I have several Model 30's and about half do not have anti-bind ribs. Years ago Rick Stickley, the barrel guy, who used to do some rifle work for my dad, when he was in Arkansas, knew someone who did, and mentioned it to my dad for his 416 Taylor which didn't have it. Rick was so packed at the time, that he never finished the Taylor before he moved to Idaho if I recall. Anyway that was years ago and my father cannot remember who it was. He can do the guide ribs on the bolts, but it's the broaching that we need. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I know that Tom Burgess did them, and had the fixture for it made up. However he passed away and I don't know anything about where that might have gone or who else might do it. I would guess that Jim Wisner has also done it. (I am talking on 1917 enfields in general, should be same as the mod. 30).

Tom never did tell me how it was done though, he explained how the guide rib was mounted to the bolt but not how the slot was cut. Sorry I'm not more help.

Red

Such a slot can be cut using a lathe carriage as a shaper. Basically just armstrong work requiring careful setup.

Thanks for the info. I am trying Wisner and seeing if they do it. Hopefully they do. Would love to finally get these broached and set up like the later 30's. Thanks again.

quote:

Originally posted by SR4759:
Such a slot can be cut using a lathe carriage as a shaper. Basically just armstrong work requiring careful setup.

IMO it's a lot easier and faster to make a single point broach for the milling machine. I've broached several holes that way.

before I get in trouble with Jim, I doubt they do it, I just think he's probably done it before and could tell you how.

Red

If you want it for looks, fine. If you want it for more positive action cycling, IMO you'd be a lot better off lapping the bolt raceway surfaces.
Regards, Joe

Joe,

I'm not a gunsmith, so only asking this to understand, wouldn't adding the rib effectively guide the bolt, eliminating bind which is due to the difference in the hardness of the races vs. the bolt/lugs (I thought I heard that somewhere) whereas lapping just loosens it up basically? One way you have a tighter fit, but eliminate the bind by keeping it straight, the other way you eliminate the bind by making it loose enough (maybe very infinitesimally) that it no longer binds?

I had a 1917 winchester that would bind if not pulled straight, very straight, back. the diagnoses was that in welding the pond on the bridge it had warped just enough to make it tighter there. I was given to prescriptions by different gunsmiths, 1. add a guide rib, 2. lap out the bridge area till it stopped binding.

both I'm sure would have cured the ailment, the 2nd being less trouble and cost, I'm just wondering if one is better than the other or as long as the result is the same does it matter?

Red

Ok guys, just watched some u tube videos, very cool stuff. I like that rotary/wobble broaching. looks like a guy at home could do it just with a single cutter though. I'd like to see it actually done on an action, would be really great.

Red

Red, in my experience the guide rib serves a fairly good purpose in the Mausers but you'll notice that many if not most other bolt rifles don't have one. Sure, some have some sort of guide but others have none. It's been my experience that the binding is due more to roughness in certain spots than to any misalignment per se.

Yes, the lapping will increase any clearances by a few ten-thousandths or even a thousandth or so, but in the process the binding will be cured. For an example, pick up any National Match 1903 Springfield and work the bolt. If it's the original bolt then I don't care how much side pressure you put on the knob, the bolt will cycle smooth as glass and fast as a greased pig.

I think most professional smiths lap their ex-military customs, it's the only way I know to get a really slick bolt cycle.

IMO the fellow who told you that a rib would cure your pond-binding problem was wrong, wrong, wrong. I've done a few of these and that's my opinion based upon experience.
Regards, Joe

Well I tried Jim, no go there. Tried a few others to no avail. The late Tom Burgess keeps getting mentioned back to me, but his passing puts a damper on it. I'm checking now with Steve Heilmann. Don't know if he will do something so minor given his high end work, but can't hurt. My main priority in all this is my father's 416 Taylor. The other 30's are secondary. If I can't find someone, he is going to have to put it on a later Model 30, and do all the work of converting another. He really wants a guide rib for that gun since I've gotten older and we are talking bear hunting. As few things that can go wrong the better. Another reason also we are wary of doing it ourselves, and want someone more experienced to do it. Also, talked to him. It wasn't Rick that told him someone (I assume Tom Burgess) did that work, but rather the head of McMillan stocks, when he was looking for a good synthetic stock for the Taylor. A little off topic, but does anyone know if Rick Stickley is still doing gunwork these days?

Maybe ask Dennis Olsen...???



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quote:

Originally posted by JD Miller:
Maybe ask Dennis Olsen...???

I was also going to suggest that, I remember someone hear writing that Dennis had a lot of experience with P-17's and M30's.

If you PM me I have collected all of Toms posts here on ar and there are some that go into detail how he put the rib on. I would be glad to email you them it will save you some searching and it is interesting reading. A decent smith should be able to pull it off pretty easy. Toms rib btw is a much tighter tolerance than the 30s I have both in the shop and they are both extremely smooth actions the nod going to the burgess of course however the factory remingtons are pretty sweet!

Nick is super on the Enfields as well as others. His advice is valuable.
Butch