Hey guys,

I’m cleaning a gun for a buddy, 1920 German Luger. After some issues with an oddball Japanese 357 that I still can’t reassemble I decided just to field strip it.

Here’s my issue, after reassembly you have to manually close the toggle. It was having. Some issues before I started, you’d release it and it would only close halfway, part of the time, and then you’d have to manually close it the rest of the way. Now it won’t close at all without pushing on it. I suspect a spring issue. It have no use where said spring could be.

Second issue, the take down pin won’t stay up. I’m fairly certain in this one I know the issue. The small spring that fits under the take down pin and locks in the groove on the pin. It’s pretty much flush in the bottom of the action now. I don’t know why one disassembly and reassembly would do that other than it being old or my bad luck.

Could that be something else and if I need that spring where could I source it?

Thanks guys. Pretty disappointed in the outcomes on this. Other than my s&w and modern semis I don’t think I’m gonna mess with old gun stripping. I’m two for two.

Red

Just found out from my buddy that the slide stop has always done that they even held it in place w tape before.

quote:

1920 German Luger

If you don't have a diagram, here's one, I hope it helps you.
https://www.americanrifleman.o...oded-view-luger-p08/

There's probably a You Tube that might be helpful.

"Gopole "The Luger Man" Tape? Someone's gotta be kidding! The Luger is actually a simple handgun t o...at least field strip.

It sounds like when the pistol is re-assembled, the Coupling Link part#11 in the schematic, link posted by ronco) is not engaging the Recoil Lever (part# 29).

The pistol will go together, but there is no mainspring tension brought to the Toggle Assembly.

When re-assembling the pistol,, turn the Upper Assembly Up-Side Down in your hand and swivl that Coupling Link (11) to the rear so it lays flat out to the rear of the Upper Assembly all by itself.

Then take the Lower Assembly and also turn it Up-Side Down and slide it onto the Lower from the rea so the Frame Rails engage for a short distance.

Now turn the entire pistol assembly up-right.
That Coupling Link #11 will be laying out in plain view on the inside of the Frame.

Push the Upper Assembly to the rear and guide that Coupling Link past the magazine well,,then let it drop into the cut out that holds the mainspring with the Recoil Lever (#29) visible on top of it.

At this point the Coupling Link will drop down into the open cut in the Frame and as you continue to slide the Upper Assembly to the rear, the Coupling Link will engage and hook onto the Recoil Lever.
Now you have the MainSpring engaged to work the action/Toggle assembly.

Continue to push (under mainspring tension) the Upper Assembly all the way to rear as far as it will slide...then Hold It There.
Hold it there either by pressing the muzzle of the bbl against a table top or other firm surface is the easiest for most people.

With the pistol in this condition, and the TD Lever turned Down to the open position,, replace the SidePlate.
The rear edge of the Side Plate slides under the edge of the frame first and then let the front leg of the sideplate down next to the TD Latch/Lever.

Now swing the TD Latch back into the lock position and allow the Upper assembly to move forward under spring tension to the locked breech position.

That small wire lock spring in the TD Latch can sometimes be stuck in the down position with dried oil, dirt,grime.
It can also be the victim of being bent by someone trying to pry it from it's seat in the latch itself for whatever reason needed to remove it.
It's just a small section of spring wire bent to shape and sometimes needs to be re--bent/shaped (carefully!) to give it it's needed detent quality back again.
also check the small locking notch that the spring wire snaps in to in the frame and see if that isn't filled with dirt and grime. No place for the spring wire to lock in to if it is.