Hi everyone,

I purchased a rifle a while back, a Krico 600 with scope rings. The rings are of european design and have a lateral adjustment on the rear ring. Unfortunately, the previous owner epoxied the adjustment screw as well as the groove the ring slid over (as well as the bases, I might add) I understand the idea of using epoxy as a securing method for mounts and bases, but I wish to use this feature to help me sight in a new scope. Can this epoxy be removed without damaging the rear ring?





PS: Does anyone recognize the brand of mount/rings? There are no markings on them anywhere. The bottom of the front ring has a recoil lug that mates in the base.

Sometimes the heat (flame) of a propane torch will burn away, or, loosen the grip of the epoxy allowing the gentle scraping of the crap using a popcicle stick type implement.

I often heat a screwdriver and use it to transfer the heat, keeping the flame away from the work piece.
Steve

Heat is what you need, a good option on metal pieces is a soldering iron, just let it heat up and hold it to the piece, may take a good while but epoxy will eventually break down and turn loose. I'm usually to impatient to wait on the soldering iron, except if it's a really purty piece, and in that case, I have one of the 'Micro' blowtorches that I put a needle tip flame point from onto the work piece.

Good luck.

You didn't have any pictures when I posted before. Now having seen what you are working with, I wouldn't change anything. That Simmons scope will make a fine heat sink.

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:
You didn't have any pictures when I posted before. Now having seen what you are working with, I wouldn't change anything. That Simmons scope will make a fine heat sink.

Tazzman, I see this quite often in my shop. I grind a screwdriver to fit the slot PERFECTLY. Grip the shank with a small wrench or vise grips. The wrench or VG's are not so much for extra leverage but so you can more easily apply strong steady torque. Secure the action in vise, then apply heat with small torch to the screwdriver shank. Keep the tool aligned with the axis of the screw and apply strong, STEADY pressure while keeping the heat on the driver. Do not use quick, jerky pressure or the screw with snap. Usually takes a few minutes or so but I once spent over 15 minutes getting one to let go. Mike

Thanks for your replies, all of you. There seems to be a concensus on the use of heat to loosen the grip of the epoxy. Now for an additional question, what about the blueing? Does blueing change colour as it is heated? There is no hurry on my part as of yet, though.

As for you Westpac, tsk tsk. Don't knock this Simmons scope. It was manufactured at about the same time that I purchased the rifle, about 20 years ago, when Simmons had a very good reputation. It is very clear and has a very sharp image. I seem to remember that it was Simmons' first foray in large objectives (44mm). Besides, it will give me a chance to shoot the rifle instead of looking at it.

Cheers.

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:
You didn't have any pictures when I posted before. Now having seen what you are working with, I wouldn't change anything. That Simmons scope will make a fine heat sink.

Yup.....100% concurr here.....

Before you start heating up the mount,can you take the scope out of the rings??