I clam not to be a gunsmith. I just enjoying tinkering on my own fire arms and every now and again replacing parts for friends or getting some extra cash for cleaning.
But recently I have taken on a project and am in the middle of setting up my own shop air.
I am new to pneumatics and if anyone out there could tell me what I need from air exit of the tank to proper line adjustments.
Max pressure runs under 120PSI.
My shop sees everything from all traps of fire arms to paintball guns to traps and more.

I come to you guys because most of you know what is required for such shops and how alot of us enjoy or just do it our selves.
Thanks for all the help.

As of right now all I know is I need from my compressor is a regulator and air filter to remove water and airborne particles.

Arrange several points in your shop that you can plug into shop air outlets. One is NEVER enough.

Put quick disconnects on one end of your hoses and the outlet points, and nipples on the the other end of the hose and on each of the tools you'll run. They are commonly available.

Do NOT use any form of steel pipe (black or galvanized) for the plumbing. If you get some water in the lines over the years and internal rust occurs, the pipe will weaken. Steel pipe forms fragments that can do terrible damage if it fails. Use copper tubing and swage-lock or bushing type gas seal fittings. If copper fails it will just split and gas will escape ... but no shrapnel.

You probably also need an oiler in at least one line for air tools. Actually, I have only one oil free circuit that I use for painting. The others are fed from an oiler.

Typically shop air is 60 psig. My regulator can be set higher than that ... but I can't remember ever having gone above 90 psig.

I have a two stage, 5 hp, 220v US-made Quincy that I bought when it was carried by Harbor Freight. It charges the reservoir to 175 PSIG. The high pressure reservoir simply means it will not run as often as would a single stage compressor.

I run air tools, an air expansion cooler for the mill, a blast cab, and spray guns.

Hope that helps.

At work we run compressed air in black pipe with filters and regulators at the point of use. At the air compressor there is a water separator and a refrigerant air dryer. For a small shop with short runs I would use copper pipe and a regulator/water separator at the tank. Stay away from the PVC pipe temptation.

Having been a facilities manager at one time or another I want you to know that installing adequate air service is a real science. The complexity of which depends on your need.You can get a fair education if you can get an old McMaster or Grainger catalog.Each has good information for what you are trying to do. There are beuceaup little things that can and should be learened, one of which is galvanized pipe is the way to go if you keep the sludge and water out of the lines. There is a lot to doing it right but it isn't that hard to learn because once you are informed you'll see that in large degree it is all common sense and proper selection of hardeware and installation. Feel free to E-Mail me. roger

I got by for a couple years with PVC. Then happened to read what issues I wasn't aware of. http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

When I expanded my wood working area I went with this type nylon system.
http://www.rapidairproducts.com/. Little more expensive but easy to make as amall or large as you want and take with you.

quote:

As of right now all I know is I need from my compressor is a regulator and air filter to remove water and airborne particles.

You might also want to get an oil separator. It does exactly that-- separates compressor oil from the air you get down the line. You use it when you must not get oil on whatever it is with which you are working...

Copper piping a must. No PVC, no Galvanized, No black iron, Copper pipe only. Install a braided flex line between the compressor and the pipe on the wall.

Where ever you set up your compressor run your lines so that the lowest part of them is the fitting at the tank. This will reduce water build up in the lines which is hard to remove once inside. As you run your line down the wall and install T fittings for the QC (quick connects) Be sure to install a full port ball valve at every quick connect or at least every few feet of line depending on how large your system and shop is. This allows you to shut off areas to install more or modify the lines.

Install an automatic drain on the tank and USE it. If you are going to use an oiler set it up at the outlet that you will use your air tools. oilers have a hard time getting the proper amount of oil down the line. better yet just keep a bottle of air tool oil handy and oil your tools before you use them.

Run the line full pressure install a regulator at the point of use if needed. I run mine wide open and only regulate at the tool I'm using.
This will prevent lack of flow due to a regulator being placed somewhere in the line. Regulators kill flow so only use them where needed.

FYI
Cal Osha requires a permit for every pressure vessel over 10 gallons. they also require a functioning automatic drain. Piping can be stainless, copper or brass only. No PVC or steel allowed. A valve that shuts of the air must be located within easy reach of the operator at the point of use. Hose clamps are strictly forbidden. Must be push on hose with push on fitting or crimped fittings.
I know you're in Main but Just a FYI on what is a good practice

What is the problem with using pvc piping?

Tthe equipment from the air tank to the copper line is witch I m not knowledgeable about. Pressure gauges and filters and all that stuff. There is just so much out there and no one brakes it down to tell you, this is what you need.
I can weld, I can sodder, I can machine simple parts, and was trained as a 45B in the army(small arms and towed artillery repairer).

Having been a Journeyman pipefiter for nearly 20 years, this is the 1st time I have ever heard of any reason for NOT using black carbon steel pipe for running air lines.@ least not from a rupture standpoint.

I have seen black carbon steel pipe used for 200 PSI high pressure air & have never heard or seen of any problems W/pipe rupture.

As far as the corrosion & rust particle issue, what about the interior of the accumulator tank? Every accumulator tank I have seen was made from black carbon steel.

Onme thing to watch out for: If you have to run under anything W/your pipe &U create a low spot, instal a "t" fitting of some sort, attach a drip leg sveral 12" long & install a drain valve. This will allow drainage of condnsation that will accumulate over time, even if you have some sort of watre removal system.

wildcat, I never heard anything about not using black pipe either. I must have added 1000 feet of 1 inch black pipe to the existing system in the shop. I also never seen a air tank not made of plain steel. Customstox I worked in a shop that had PVC pipe and it was like working on a ticking timed bomb. Fittings spliting were brass NPT threads met pvc and most sch 40 fittings don't match the pressure rating of the pipe. I think OSHA has a few papers sbout it.

wow, lots of good info, sparked an interesting debate.

in our shop we probably have hundreds of feet of black pipe airlines. also if you run pvc run it is sched 80 not sched 40. you must watch your compressor pressure vs line pressure because you will get a drop through the lines. most common mistake i see is that people run to small of a line diameter. 1/2" is really not enough diameter if you have any length to your runs. also watch the directions for your tools, most run on 100 psi or less & if you up your pressure much beyond that tool damage will occur

James
I don't mean to sound generic but it really depends on what you need the air for and how clean it needs to be.
Bead blast and painting application need clean oil free dry air. Water in a spray gun is obvious but in a bead blast cabinet. It tends to clog up the gun sand and water thing. water will eventually evaporate but oil contamination is just about for ever.

Mc master carr has great descriptions of what there stuff does and what it's rated for.

Here's my recommendation for a shop air compressor and plumbing.
Install compressor with flex line from unit to plumbing on wall. Run your lines to suite your shop keeping the lowest point at the tank the best you can. As stated if you can not make the tank the lowest part of the run then a T fitting and about 12" of pipe pointed straight down to act as a water trap and connect a drain valve to the end of the pipe. this way you can dump the water in the pipe. Use the largest pipe you can. 1" minimum Bigger if your shop is on the large size. That will reduce any flow issues that may result from too small of pipe.

Some where near the beginning of the run you should install a filter separator. And you should also run a bypass line around the filter with ball valves installed so you can by pass the filter with out shutting down the system. Get a filter that has enough flow to handle your compressor. These filters are listed with PSI and CFM (cubic feet per minute) ratings they also can be had with an automatic drain and a sight glass. Get the biggest and best you can afford. And expect to pay a few hundred dollars for a good one. These things are large and have good capacity and for a small shop the filter would last a good while before needing service. This filter is designed to be inline with the system. Do not use one of the small filter regulators with the small water trap and filter set up that are about four to six inches tall. and have 1/4 to 3/8 pipe fittings these restrict flow to the point that down the line you won't have any decent flow. That type of filter regulator is for a point of use set up. If you can afford is I'd recommend a refrigerated cycling air dryer again depending on how large your shop is and how much air you intend to use. Air dryers are expensive and only recommended for larger industrial type setting or high demand air use such as a paint shop.
As stated if you need to regulate the pressure down the line do it where you are going to connect the tool. and on a T fitting as to not be in line with the rest of the system.

Again for safety sake install a few ball valves inline with the plumbing to isolate an area with a problem or install the valves at every quick connect.

I know opening up the Mcmaster carr catalog can be overwhelming but you need to remember that these filter only do a few things and that is 1: remove particulate matter. 2: remove oil. 3: remove water. Thats it. there rest is just bells and whistles
Then you can get inline oilers that inject oil into the line going to the tool that requires oil in the air they use like most air tools. Then regulators to reduce the pressure at the point of use for controlling a tool like an air die grinder or a spray gun.

Pm me if needed I'll be more then happy to point out some specifics But you need to supply me with the information on your compressor and the tools you intend to use.

quote:

Originally posted by wildcat junkie:
Having been a Journeyman pipefiter for nearly 20 years, this is the 1st time I have ever heard of any reason for NOT using black carbon steel pipe for running air lines.@ least not from a rupture standpoint.

I have seen black carbon steel pipe used for 200 PSI high pressure air & have never heard or seen of any problems W/pipe rupture.

As far as the corrosion & rust particle issue, what about the interior of the accumulator tank? Every accumulator tank I have seen was made from black carbon steel.

Onme thing to watch out for: If you have to run under anything W/your pipe &U create a low spot, instal a "t" fitting of some sort, attach a drip leg sveral 12" long & install a drain valve. This will allow drainage of condnsation that will accumulate over time, even if you have some sort of watre removal system.

It's not that the pipe is not capable of handling the pressure it's the corrosion issue.
Here in the liberaly lovely state of California Black iron is illegal to use as air line due to it potential to corrode.
If it was installed properly with a well designed air system there would be no problem. But the fact is most industrial shops don't give much thought to the air system.
I've seen only two shops that have a well thought out air system the rest is a hodge podge of parts.

As for PVC
It can be used but it can't be used within 10 feet of the floor to prevent damage by fork lift and such. And pretty much when you get a final inspection here in California they pretty much flunk you for it. They (the government) doesn't want PVC to be used for anything other then water lines and sprinkler systems
Keep in mind this is for established businesses and doesn't apply to the home shop.

We also have a system of permitting tanks here and every four years Pong Gee (Osha Inspector) comes out to ultrasound your tank for corrosion.
He also checks that every quick connect has a ball valve right behind it and that the tank has a functioning auto drain valve

Maybe I need to consult for companies that are just setting up. I've been put through the ringer with all the local regs it's nothing to me now.

Whatever pipe you use WIX has a good seperator and dryer filter.I have my reg after the filter when used with air tools and I oil them every time I use them just a few drops works.Be sure to drain the tank at least once or twice a month deoending on use.Good Luck

OK everone has their own preferences and suggestions, here are mine:

First, use this kit to set everything up in your shop:

http://ww2.harborfreight.com/c...taf?itemnumber=66747



Since you are learning, you will be time and aggravation ahead by using something like this. Then when you get more experience you may either outgrow it or decide it can meet your needs, but the important thing is this is a simple and flexible system to setup, and after it is up, if you decide to move an outlet is is no big deal. Also, if you realize you are using your air for all sorts of things and would like a tiny bit more oomph in your pneumatics then you can decide to upgrade to metal, but then it will be an educated decision on your part.

Now, in regards to tools here are my opinions. These may be controversial but it's the way I do it, which may not be the way that someone else does it.

First, I do not use oilers. I oil my tools before and after use with ATF in a little metal oil can. Just use 3 drops before the first use and 3 drops when it is put away. It works fine but I do have to say that I've had 2 wrenches- a 3/8" air rathchet (snap on) and a 1/2" impact (craftsman) that both had the trigger air seals go bad on them, I suppose it could be from the ATF but both had seen A LOT of use. Anyway, Other than the oil can I don't use an oiler.

I also have a moisture separator/filter unit (binks) that I used to use for painting but decided that in my locale here it is not really necessary. If I was painting show cars I'd put it back (it has 2 couplers so it just snaps in and out) but I really haven't used it in 15 years. I do have a HVLP spray setup with it's own turbine compressor, and use that for big stuff but for example I've sprayed KG Gunkote with a small detail gun and just a needle air valve on the gun and it works just fine.

As mentioned, I think one of the most important things to do is upgrade the drain valve on the tank so you can use it easily and drain it once a day at least.

In installed copper pipe in my shop because it is easier for me to install and modify than iron pipe and it disipates heat better than PVC so water drops out before it reaches my blast cabinet. A good friend of mine has PVC pipe in his shop and its been in service for 20 years without a single failure, but I wouldn't use it.

James Kain ; Will your shop air line " EVER " see freezing weather ?.

I've been running Sch. 80 for over 25 years 200 PSI with multiple outlets .

My compressor is Large a 4 Cyl. Webster 65 CFM with 300 gallon storage #2 tanks .

Condensation Drain A main line drain out of second storage tank with a Ball Valve ,

then a vertical 10 Ft rise with an evaporator in line.

With another ball valve in the bottom end of the Tee ( No 90, I used a Tee for the ball valve ).

Then I have a separator regulator set in the bottom leg of a U configuration about 2 X 2 X 2 Ft

long with Quick disconnects and another tee with a drain there also .Regulator runs at 220 PSI .

My air lines then proceeds too various areas of my shop which has separate regulators along with

filtered in line air oilers or desiccant filters . My lines which run oilers also have check

vales in line upstream of the oilers . My Lab has a small nitrogen generator with evaporator

for pure dry gas that's a separate building and system .

The reason I have so much stuff is some of my Pneumatic tools require lubrication ,others don't .

My spray booth has Dbl filters & Regulators plus desiccant filtration .

Nobody likes contamination in piano black finishes .

My tool handles are painted with color for coding as are air fitting oulets .

Never had one problem using Sch 80 even at 300 PSI .Protecting plastic from UV is the KEY !.

My compressor tanks drain vertical line drain and evaporator all set out side of my shops north

side protected by the shops roof over hang . I see Little freezing weather where I reside .

I also installed ball valves at key points in the separate air lines in case something broke or blew .

Wasted my money as I've yet to use one of those !!.

kcstott ; Black pipe is like a pipe bomb !.

The crap which comes from China or Korea or where ever dirt cheap material and labor abound

is full of defects !. SDG&E ( Power utility of Southern CA ) outlawed anything but Galvanized and

Polypropylene pipe for Natural or propane gas . Special treated metal risers fused to Polypropylene

pipe makes for transitioning out of the ground too meters or equipment now . Pipe has to be fused welded .


I won't use Copper EVER for an AIR LINE !. Potable water EVERY TIME !.Why some of you might ask ?.

Many containers of Copper some years back were defective and it failed with " CORROSION " !.

With just water in it . So exposed At Air compressor pressures BOOM !!!.

I guess I don't have to tell you where it came from either. Dry wall Dog food Kids candy or toys ring any bells !. Yea I thought it might .


If you must use copper for your sake as well as others get GOOD made in the USA TYPE K Hard line .

http://www.engineeringtoolbox....per-tubes-d_779.html

I've seen more than a few knotheads at the local Home Depot or Lowes purchasing copper for air line

and buying the WRONG grade of Chinese junk . DITTO with Harbor Freight and your tax dollars .

What the Hell it's only your life !!!. Some parts of the country allow potable water lines,

drains and vents inside a house made of PVC !.

Kommyfornia Don't and there's a reason why we don't either !!!.

quote:

James Kain ; Will your shop air line " EVER " see freezing weather ?.

YES!
My shop is not heated, and more then likely not this year. Probley not until I can buy my own house.
I was doing some loading last winter in -45*F! Man I tell you, that gets cold fast. I was about sitting on my heater!

Doc Correct every time
I failed to mention the K type hard line.
That's all I ever use for airline No type M or anything else.

And lets put it this way any material not properly quality controlled is an accident waiting to happen.

If possible, get the compressor out of the shop. They are all loud and it gets old very quickly.