Normaly I put a layer of tape on front, sides and bottom of recoil lug. difficult on ruger so this time I just put some clay in notch where action screw enters lug and bedded it flush all around thinking to relieve it with chisel later. Now Im wondering if it shoots good flush, is there any reason to relieve around front, sides and bottom of lug. Cant think of any myself but there is always something I dont know. It is laminated stock.
Posts: 1111 | Location: oregon | Registered: 20 February 2009
The reason for taping the sides/front/bottom of the recoil lug. After glassing when you remove the barreled action from the stock and finish cleaning up then replace the barreled action into the stock, with no clearance it is difficult not to scrape some of the bedding compound off the sides or front, when you do, that scraped off residue will end up in the bottom of the cavity. Then the recoil lug will be sitting on a high spot of the bedding and the action will be held off of the bedding by a corresponding amount of scrapings. This can be demonstrated by setting up a dial indicator on one end of the action and alternate tightening/loosening of the front and rear action screws.
One way to avoid scraping the glass bedding with out using tape is before you apply the release agent, chamfer all the sharp corners and edges of the recoil lug with a fine cut file.
Craftsman
Posts: 1551 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001
Originally posted by Craftsman: The reason for taping the sides/front/bottom of the recoil lug. After glassing when you remove the barreled action from the stock and finish cleaning up then replace the barreled action into the stock, with no clearance it is difficult not to scrape some of the bedding compound off the sides or front, when you do, that scraped off residue will end up in the bottom of the cavity. Then the recoil lug will be sitting on a high spot of the bedding and the action will be held off of the bedding by a corresponding amount of scrapings. This can be demonstrated by setting up a dial indicator on one end of the action and alternate tightening/loosening of the front and rear action screws.
One way to avoid scraping the glass bedding with out using tape is before you apply the release agent, chamfer all the sharp corners and edges of the recoil lug with a fine cut file.
copy, thanks!
Posts: 1111 | Location: oregon | Registered: 20 February 2009
If you try to install the metal into the bedding at an angle, yes you can get scraping. Just set it in straight. I don't use tape because I want the metal tight in all directions.
Posts: 17364 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009
shot today, 150 tsx inside 1" mid 2700s out of 16" barrel 300 rcm. The kid is happy had to take some wood off bottom of stock as floor plate was binding on closing.
Posts: 1111 | Location: oregon | Registered: 20 February 2009
You can feel it in the air She is 5' tall and wanted short light "real" elk rifle with budget of 1200. New rifle was under 800, found used leupold 2.5x8 for 300 and a bunch of once fired brass on gunbroker. I donated primers, powder and bullets. Now to work up a less expensive bullet for practice.
Posts: 1111 | Location: oregon | Registered: 20 February 2009
I agree, not need for tape in the Ruger 77, Ive bedded a lot of them tight from end to end..
I do tape a Win. model 70 sides, front, and bottom on the recoil lug
No tape on a Mauser..
Had my best accuracy and ease of removal with the above...
But bedding with glass and wood, is never written in stone..best to figure how it shoots best before you dump a bunch of glass in the wood..I use three options as a rule, tight, 3 point bedding and free floating..the rifle will determine whats best..Free float is always last, tight is first..3 point is second..
