Ok,
Here is the situation. I have two Savage 110 rifles, one in .223 and one in .308, both are pre Accu trigger.

Since I just got married and won't have the money to get a new rifle anytime soon, I have been debating on doing some upgrading to get my ugly but accurate rifles to become even more accurate.

Currently I am debating between a new trigger or new stock for the .308. I am pretty new to after market stuff, and was wondering which way to go, stock or trigger.

My first step would be the trigger.
With a better trigger a rifle can be truly accurate.

Johnch

If you are handy with tools (screwdriver and hex wrenches) you can adjust the Savage triggers down to about 3.5 lbs pretty easily. Just go to Google and enter Savage Trigger Adjustment. You should get several hits, and find the detailed instructions with pictures for doing it. My old 110 in .223 adjusted down just fine, saving me the $100 or so a new trigger would have cost.

Does your rifle have a wood or synthetic stock? I would work the trigger first and then get the stock bedded. If you want a better looking stock look at a Boyds laminate or a B&C Duramax. They are both reasonably priced and will improve the look and accuracy of your rifle if properly bedded.

They are both wood stocks, and I have adjusted the triggers down to below four pounds. (When my gunsmith friend found out I did that by myself, he was a little worried).

I have been eyeing some of the synthetic stocks on Midway lately, but I have been trying to figure out if they are easily installed. The Timmey triggers also look tempting.

I am probably going to work on my .308 first. It is the more "inaccurate" of the two, and already has a nice new scope on it from last season.

As far as triggers, get the Sharp Shooters Supply before the Timney.

I'd get the trigger, and then use the wood stock for practice bedding a rifle. You might just be very surprised at the results.

I'd spend money for a match barrel before I'd pay money for a low to mid grade synthetic stock. The lowest quality stocks I would consider would be the Stockade stocks sold by Lock, Stock and Barrel. JMO, Dutch.

Looks like I will get a trigger first.

Dutch, what is the advantage to the Sharp Shooters trigger over the Timney? I have seen a lot of Timney's, but don't know anyone who has a Sharps.

The Sharp Shooter Supply trigger is a little crisper, in my opinion. They only work on Savages -- but their trigger used to be standard on the factory accuracy numbers (pre Accu-trigger). HTH, Dutch.

quote:

Originally posted by NEJack:
Looks like I will get a trigger first.

Dutch, what is the advantage to the Sharp Shooters trigger over the Timney? I have seen a lot of Timney's, but don't know anyone who has a Sharps.

I have the standard SS trigger on a couple of Savages. Some of the big advantages are that just about any fumble finger can install them, (proof is, I installed my own), anyone can adjust them (I adjusted mine) and if you get in trouble you can call Ed (Ed Moreno, the maker) and asked him how to fix it and he can explain it to you over the phone.

I have one SS trigger on my 22.250 adjusted to 14 oz (not their match trigger) and it varies by less than an ounce on a digital trigger gage. The second one I have set at 2.5# on a 243 and both break as crisp as you could wish for.

The LAST thing I would do to a Savage is replace the trigger. Savage trigger adjustment is the simplest thing in the world; takes five minutes and a small Allen wrench. The results are almost invariably wonderful.

If you have a wood stock, I would float the barrel and glass the action. If it's pillar bedded, just ensure that the action rests on the pillars, not the wood.

Plastic Savage stocks are a great thing to replace, IMO, and if you only do one thing to a Savage, that should be it, as far as I am concerned.

What kind of accuracy are you getting right now, and what are you hoping to achieve?

My .308 runs right around 1 MOA, and I suspect it is capable of better than that.

I have adjusted the factory trigger as much as I can, and it still feels a bit "creepy". My 110 in .223 shoots great groups (best was a three shot group under a 1/2 inch), but the .308 has always been a bit picky.



Free floated the barrel last season when I was trying to figure out what happened to a normally accurate deer rifle. Turned out to be the scope, but I did do some work to the stock (although it looks VERY ugly, a lot of room under the barrel).

I have never glassed an action before, and I am not sure how to do it. Is there any place that has a good description of how it is done? Is it something that a novice can do?

Of course, I bought this rifle with the idea of learning how to do some minor gunsmithing. If I mess up the stock it wouldn't be all that horrible.

IMO, one MOA is pretty good for any factory rifle. Improving that signifigantly will usually take an aftermarket barrel. That's very easy to do on a Savage, but may be more than you wanted to fool with.

Creep in the Savage trigger is usually a sear engagement issue. Frank De Haas has a very good explanation in Bolt Action Rifles. Online, try http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage110trigger.html. See #4 for sear adjustment. Make sure that you abuse the rifle a bit afterwards (bouncing on butt, slamming the bolt home) to make sure the striker stays put. And make sure the safety still functions in all three positions.

Savageshooters.com has a pretty decent article on bedding (http://www.savageshooters.com/Articles/Bedding101.html) although I think it's a little too involved. I'm pretty lazy and have actually gotten to the point that I simply roughen the bedding surfaces with sandpaper, plop in a bit of Accraglass, and loosely tighten the barreled action into place. This seems to work as well as anything.

NEjack,
I have a rifle basix on my savage 112, and a choate tactical stock.
The trigger is great!simple to install and at very little cost,..and even cheaper in the US!!!
last group 14mm "220mtrs
regards

griff

As with Griff in the UK, alot of Savage owners in France replace the factory trigger with a Rifle Basix.