making a mold of an action

30 May 2010, 23:13

Kind of an odd question but....

I am interested in reshaping some of the metal surfaces (square bridges) on a couple of my rifle actions. No way on earth am I going to whip out the files go to town and hope for the best.....

So what I am thinking is that I'd like to make molds of the top half of the actions then cast the molds to try out some of my ideas and see if I like them "in the flesh"... a lot safer than just stripping away metal.

Has anyone done anything like this before? If so how did you go about it and what materials did you use?

Naturally, the various bedding materials have crossed my mind but I was hoping for a cheaper and easier route so that I can try out multiple ideas and have several side by side comparisons.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Take Care,
Dave

31 May 2010, 00:24

jeffeosso

llook up silicon mold making

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com

31 May 2010, 00:53

SR4759

quote:
Originally posted by DavidC:
Kind of an odd question but....

I am interested in reshaping some of the metal surfaces (square bridges) on a couple of my rifle actions. No way on earth am I going to whip out the files go to town and hope for the best.....

So what I am thinking is that I'd like to make molds of the top half of the actions then cast the molds to try out some of my ideas and see if I like them "in the flesh"... a lot safer than just stripping away metal.

Has anyone done anything like this before? If so how did you go about it and what materials did you use?

Naturally, the various bedding materials have crossed my mind but I was hoping for a cheaper and easier route so that I can try out multiple ideas and have several side by side comparisons.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Take Care,
Dave

If you have access to learning a CAD solid modeling program you can do it without any metal. And you will not be restricted to one offs. Anything you try can be revised by the almighty undo button.

31 May 2010, 01:07

JBrown

Dave
That is an interesting question and it brings to mind a bunch of projects that I don't have time for.

I believe Jeffe's idea is the way you want to go to get a proper cast.

Because of the materials I have at hand, and because I understand that you want to shape the mold itself I would use modeling clay. If it were me I would make a mold of the top of the action using fiberglass mat and polyester reisn. Just like bedding you would use clay to keep the resin out of the action recesses, then liberal amounts of mold release. Then fiberglass with several lawyers of mat/resin.

Once your mold is cure you could fill the mold with plaster or wax, but my choice would be clay because it is easy to shape.

Jason

"You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core."
_______________________

Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt.

Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry
Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure.

-Jason Brown

31 May 2010, 10:13

kcstott

quote:
Originally posted by jeffeosso:
llook up silicon mold making

That's the stuff to use.
Also look into soft plastic fishing lure making. They use the same silicone mold making material and it may be cheeper

I second the CAd drawing but the learning curve might be too steep if he's never used a cad system before. Cost os a system is steep to although Alibre design has a demo version that is nearly completely unlocked. I used it for years before ponying up and buy a full version.

31 May 2010, 11:42

kcstott

This is by no means a finished or complete drawing. But it just goes to show what can be done with a little software and some time.

This was done on Alibre Design

Wouldn't take much to correct the ejection port and add the bolt rails. but you get the idea

31 May 2010, 15:10

Mark Neal

If you go into any local Dentist and ask to buy a pack of Alginate, this is what they take dental impressions with. It is harmless, on toxic and hardens in a few minutes. It also takes a very accurate impression (obviously). You can then take several in a short time and pour plaster positives to shape up.

Regards

31 May 2010, 17:52

John303.

Some good suggestions from the other members about making a "female" mold of the area you wish to work on. Having done that I suggest you get some "molding plaster" (the type used to make crown moldings etc.) and make a few "male" copies you can work on. This way you can have / see the actual changes you make as you go along. FWIW --- John303.

31 May 2010, 18:02

jeffeosso

http://www.accu-cast.us/Pages/...oduct%20Listing.html

07 June 2010, 18:58

DavidC

Thanks for all the good ideas.

I particularly like the dentist mold 'Alginate'
as well as the Accu-cast option. Appears I'd do the least damage that way......

I'll have to give it a try and see what I can come up with.

Regards,
Dave

08 June 2010, 08:21

RogerR

Dave

For one off mold making I have used building center silicone caulk in the 10 ounce plastic tubes. No need to order anything exotic. It is quick, easy and cheap. Just add some water (or latex paint if you want color) to activate and speed the curing. It releases easily with about anything, can be cut easily and is plenty strong for casting most things.

12 June 2010, 03:24

DavidC

RogerR,

I like your suggestion. Think I'll give it a try.

Looks like I will probably have to try more than one technique and see what gives me the results I am looking for.

Best Regards,
Dave

12 June 2010, 06:04

butchlambert

My Grandson in Calif. is taking CAD in highschool. He takes his drawing to their 3D printer and it makes a pretty good model.
Butch

12 June 2010, 07:21

kcstott

It's called rapid prototyping and it damned expensive depending on the level of accuracy you want.
There's Stereo lith, Laser Cured resin, 3D printers, and lasers cutters with sheets of paper glued in layers.

Lots of high tech stuff out there.

12 June 2010, 07:56

butchlambert

I was told that the Air Force paid for it. My Grandson and a lot of his classmates are military dependents. Their parents are either stationed at Edwards AFB or at the Palmdale facility. My son is stationed at Palmdale, the U2 rebuild facility.
Butch

12 June 2010, 08:36

kcstott

The fact alone that he has access to the equipment is cool. That in itself will pay off big time down the road as this process will not be new to him when he's working a day job.

12 June 2010, 18:12

butchlambert

KC,
That class has inspired him to bring up all his grades. He has finally found his niche. He will take his second year of CAD as a senior. I think he will go on to college and engineering.
Butch

13 June 2010, 03:04

kcstott

Butch do us all a favor and tell him he'll be a much better engineer if he takes some Machinist classes as well.
Knowing how to make the part is as important as knowing how to draw it.

I've worked with engineers with and with out machinist experience and by far the ones that have the machining background are far better at designing the part so it can be easily made.

I wish I hit my groove that early I would haven't wasted so much time chasing the military.
I could have graduated and been in the engineering field for a good ten years by now.
I'm going to go back to college before I hit 40 and get my degree in Mech eng.