Both myself and several other posters have posed this question before.

Most responses from the "pros" have semmed somewhat evasive citing a lack of specifics on the part of questions asked.

So: In a sincere effort to adress the percieved vaguery as it pertains to the questions asked, I will make a sincere effort to be more specific.

Many of us "ametuers" seek the vast wealth of first hand experience and respected opinions of some of the "professionals" on this forum. It is not that we are only seeking to cut costs, some of us what to do as much of the work that we can by ourselves. I would not attempt to ream a chamber myself as, in my opinion, the fees charged for such services are very reasonable considering the possible cosequences of a "botched" job. Extending a magazine is something I feel comfortable with.

So here goes:

In one of jbelk's posts regarding modifying M98 bolt stops for long cartridges, he mentioned milling .100" from the bolt stop. This seems to be near the practical limit for what I want to do.

I would like to extend the rear of the magazine by the thickness of the existing rear wall of a 1914 Mexican Mauser magazine. (this is a hinged floorplate version) This wall is about .120" thick. After squaring up the radius at the bottom of the rear face ahead of the trigger guard, I was planning on acetylene welding a new rear wall about .090" thick over the existing one, extending down either side of the trigger guard making sure to get adequite penetration and making a substantial "fillet" on either side of the trigger guard to allow it to finish out in a radius similar to the original. I would then remove the original rear wall with hand tools. This would now give me a magazine length from top to bottom of about 3.44"

Here is my first question/questions: Am I proceeding in the right direction? Is this a practical way to do this? Is there a better way?

Question/questions #2: Now my floorplate does not cover the "extended" magazine. I was planning to build up the rear of the floorplate with weld and finishing it flush with the radius @ the rear of my now extended magazine. I would like some input here also. Would I be better off with a "straddle" type floorplate? Is there somwhere that I can purchase one of these?

I have previously extended the front wall of another M98 Magazine by .130". This would still fit into the existing inletting as it did not extend beyond the existing radius of the front transition to the "tang" and would not require an excess amount of material to be removed from the feed ramp area.

Question /questions #3: Is this too much to remove from the feed ramp area?

The additional 120" @ the rear combined with .130" @ the front added to the 3.320" of the original length would give me a total magazine length of 3.570".

I would think 3.570" would be ideal for the 8X68S chambering, allowing for some long throating for use with the heavier bullet weights.

I hope my questions have been specific enough.

[ 04-03-2003, 02:49: Message edited by: wildcat junkie ]

Wildcat Junkie--

Well why didn't you say that's what you wanted to know??

Assuming it's a large ring '98----

1) Yes. You're on the right track. It has been done, it's feasible and a good idea.

2) Check with Jim Wisner first. He idicated to me that he was going to make some more of them. If that fails try Ted Blackburn.
Welding on floorplates will define the word "warp" for you.

3) A hundred thirty thousandths from the front is about the limit. From there forward the ramp gets too thin for lug support and too steep to feed well.

Count on moving the shoulder cam on the inner rail forward to match the 8x68 shoulder.
You'll probably have to either deeply bevel the front right of the rear bridge or cut it back even with the back of the clip slot to allow the case to eject.

When you cut the bridge back you'll need a magnum extractor so the back of the extractor is supported.

It will be very crowded and will try to feed too fast because the shoulders are pinched. Widen out the rails by about .012 at the point of the shoulder and BE SURE the surface of the feed rail is either straight or bowed outward between the rear and the point of the shoulder.

You want the shoulder to hit it's cam the same time the tip of the bullet reaches the feed ramp. That way you divide the force it takes to pivot the cartridge up and towards the center-line in half.

For a rifle to feed it's smoothest the rails should be *stoned*, not polished with a Dremel or even cloth/paper with a backing....it makes a big difference.

Ask questions as you have 'em.

Thanks for the info Jack. I believe I'm doing the same thing as Wildcat Junkie, and this is the exact type of info I (OK, we, how are things in NY Wildcat?)can use. - Dan

Many thanks jbelk:

Another question regarding the extended rear face of the magazine.

I am assuming that since the rear face is now further to the rear and will not now fit into the existing opening in the bottom of the receiver, it would be best to eliminate the portion of the rear face that extends above the sides of the magazine, allowing it to abut the bottom of the receiver rather than overlapping as it does on the standard magazine. (now gasping for breath)

Is this the best way to go, or should I elongate the receiver opening allowing the rear face to overlap?

Could you give me some contact info on Jim Wisner and Ted Blackburn?

Regarding the front extension:

If the rear of opening @ the floorplate is flush with the rear face, would it be neccesary the do the same @ the front to facilitate easy removal af cartridges when the floorplate is opened?

I was planning on leaving the area @ the bottom of the front extension @ the hinge as is, assuming that the magazine follower would raise the nose of the bullet high enough to clear the hinge portion.

As I have done in the past, the front extension would overlap the inside of the side walls acting as both a "shoulder bumper" and to act as a stop to keep the magazine follower to the rear so it would clear the hinge when the magazine is fully loaded. Allthough I did not extend the magazine, I did something similar (shoulder bumper/follower stop) on the magazine for my 8mm-06 Ackley Improved, and It worked very well.

dan belisle:

Hi Dan. Haven't been able to get much done as the new ice age here in Northern New York froze the door shut on my shop. It was several weeks before I could get in. We had a thaw in February, then it went sub zero overnight and stayed that way for weeks. About 2" of ice formed inside and out @ the bottom of the door.

The the last of the ice went out on the river last week and I think the glaciers are finally receeding.

[ 04-05-2003, 03:07: Message edited by: wildcat junkie ]

The Custom guards I make for the 375 H&H Mag requires that the the mortise in the rear of the rails be remachined to clear the new tab. I figure to remove .040" from the bolt stop. This is as far to rear as I feel comfortable with. Then you can move the front of the box. Using this method I can keep the ramp aprox .080" longer than the FN 375 actions. The inside length of this box is 3.65". However you need to either reheat treat or pick a really good action to start with. Such as 1935 Obendorfs or Commerical FN's.
You don't have to go that far, however this should help you.
Also I have straddle floor plates for the 1909 Arg. in stock now, retail $50.00 USD + s&h

J Wisner:

Thanks for the input. I am interested in the "straddle" floorplate if it will fit the 1914 Mexican magazine. I think the only thing different than the 1909 Argy is the locking screws.

Check your e-mail.

Wildcat- we're enjoying winter's last kick here (at least I hope so), -14 over night, more snow, but they're calling for plus 11 next week, so hopefully it will be nicer. Plus 10 or better and I'm ready for the range. Let me know how those straddle plates work out on the Mexican Mausers, I have a few of those ongoing as well. My 8 X 68 project is going slowly, the 'smith who was going to reanm the chamber for me is going out of business, so I'll probably just buy the reamer from him and borrow a buddy of mine's lathe. The 8mm-06 AI barrel you sent me works great, my friend is very happy with it. Well, I have to go, spring bear season starts right away and I need to get ready. - Dan