So, how far back off of the trigger sear should the safety lever cam the cocking piece? I would think just about anything greater than zero would be good enough. How much is too much?

I've installed one recently on a Swedish Mauser, and while it looks like it is just a hair from being able to slide into place, each time I grind a little more off the cocking piece it seems like I am no closer to getting it to work right.

I removed the bolt and "hand cocked" it back far enough to engage the safety lever, measured the distance from the back of the cocking piece to the back of he shroud, then flipped the safety off and measured again. The difference is .10"!

That seems excessive to me. So I double checked the placement of the pivot hole and it is right at the specified 1.67" from the front of the shroud per the instructions for a small ring Mauser.

I'm afraid that if I keep grinding on the cocking piece I'll go too far and screw it up. I thought these things needed just a light beveling to engage properly.

Any suggestions?

Jim reccomends .025" camming distance in his instructions. .10" is too much, that is just short of an eigth inch.

I agree that .10" is too much, but that was set by the location of the pivot hole which I verified is in the correct location per the instructions.

So, what should I do? Start over with a new shroud, or weld up the current hole and D&T one .075" further forward? (.10 current difference minus .025 recommended camming distance)

Anybody have any other thoughts? Is the 1.67" measurement in the instructions bogus, or did I make some sort of mistake? Anybody have Wisner's contact info?

Just set the cocking piece up in the surface grinder and take off the needed .080". You will end up with a quasi quick locking setup

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Just set the cocking piece up in the surface grinder and take off the needed .080". You will end up with a quasi quick locking setup

Wisner left that part out of his instructions...

If I knew I had to budget for a surface grinder I might have bought a different safety!

Seriously though, this is not a normal installation and I'm trying to do a post mortem and figure out what happened...

I have a grinder send it over

quote:

Originally posted by montea6b:

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Just set the cocking piece up in the surface grinder and take off the needed .080". You will end up with a quasi quick locking setup

Wisner left that part out of his instructions...

If I knew I had to budget for a surface grinder I might have bought a different safety!

Seriously though, this is not a normal installation and I'm trying to do a post mortem and figure out what happened...

A carbide cutter in the mill works just fine. But it would be a good excuse to buy a surface grinder.
Don

quote:

Originally posted by Don Markey:

quote:

Originally posted by montea6b:

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Just set the cocking piece up in the surface grinder and take off the needed .080". You will end up with a quasi quick locking setup

Wisner left that part out of his instructions...

If I knew I had to budget for a surface grinder I might have bought a different safety!

Seriously though, this is not a normal installation and I'm trying to do a post mortem and figure out what happened...

A carbide cutter in the mill works just fine. But it would be a good excuse to buy a surface grinder.
Don

I don't have a mill either... I appreciate the offers and advice, but nobody has really hit the nail on the head and cleared this up for me.

So, who out there has actually installed one of these things on a small ring Mauser? If I drilled the pivot hole in the correct place, even if I'm off by several thous with my dial calipers, why wouldn't it take mere light beveling to get the safety lever to slide into position? It should not be a tenth off. Tinkering with the sear engagement was not part of the deal when I got this safety.

In case it makes a difference, this is a '94 Carbine. Are the cocking pieces any different on these models?

I think I will call tomorrow...

I just installed one a few weeks ago. No bevelling of teh cocking piece was needed. It's hard to say what is up without actually inspecting the pieces.

Is it possible that you have a 93 or 95 cocking piece? they are not the same as the 94 & 96.

quote:

I don't have a mill either...

I think we know what the problem is. How in the hell did you mill the shroud or drill and tap it accurately in a drill press?

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:

quote:

I don't have a mill either...

I think we know what the problem is. How in the hell did you mill the shroud or drill and tap it accurately in a drill press?

+1 There may be a multitude of things going on, all due to improper installation.

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:

quote:

I don't have a mill either...

I think we know what the problem is. How in the hell did you mill the shroud or drill and tap it accurately in a drill press?

+1 There may be a multitude of things going on, all due to improper installation.

OK, I'll admit it may not be top shelf work, but it is no hack job either. The fact that I don't have a mill does not explain this.

FYI, I got the shroud leveled in a cross slide vise and used an abrasive cut-off wheel in the drill press to make the slot cut slightly undersized, and finished off final hand fitting with a flat needle file. It is as level as can be, (after tilting one on my first attempt) and the safety lever fits snugly, yet pivots freely.

For the side relief cut, I chucked up a cylindrical fine abrasive stone and worked slowly, checking for proper fit frequently as I went along. The bottom of this cut is a few hundredths lower than I would like for pride's sake, but the slot is snug enough that there is no sag to the lever so this is an extremely minor cosmetic issue that you only notice on close inspection.

For D&T of the pivot hole I marked the location after measuring with dial calipers, then leveled the shroud upside down in the vise and drilled it out with the drill press. (Admittedly I am using a small carpenter's level and not a machinist's level, but my eyes are pretty good and I strive for precision.)

I tapped the threads by hand. If there was any tilt to this pivot hole it would manifest itself in binding when the pivot screw is installed. Since there is little to no play in the safety lever, the pivot screw tolerances are snug and it installed without a hitch, I have to assume that this hole is square to the plane of rotation.

Again, while this is certainly not up to experienced machinist's standards, the methods I used to install this safety lever are not the issue here. Any small "bubbaisms" induced by the crudity of my techniques are not enough to explain almost a tenth of an inch difference in fore and aft placement of the pivot hole. (I am actually kind of proud that the results turned out as well as they did without a mill...)

There are several potential root causes of this:

1. I misplaced the location of the pivot hole. (verified correct against the instructions numerous times. could be a few thousands off due to errors in measuring with dial calipers, but not enough to explain the deviation)

2. The Instructions had an erroneous dimension listed. (doubtful... but who knows)

3. The cocking piece of the 94 Swede is different from other small ring Mausers.

It seems that the latter of these is the most probable cause at this point. Mike pointed out there there are differences in these, and I suspect that Mr. Wisner may not have accounted for this. I won't know for sure until I call, which I haven't had a chance to do yet.

This one is definitely the 94 piece that was original to the action.

The next question is does anybody have a 93 or 95 cocking piece that they could check a measurement on? If so, please let me know what the distance from the face of the sear to the front face of the cylindrical body of the piece is. I will measure mine for comparison.

Other than the placement of the pivot hole, that is the only critical dimension I can think of that would affect this issue. Well, Ok, the fore and aft location of the sear on the trigger could also be an issue if this were different.

Any other thoughts?

Just had a nice talk with Jim. I will chalk this up to variances in cocking piece dimensions and find a way to make it work...