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Rem 700 extractor
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Had one replaced around 500 rds ago and it's failing to pull the case out. This extractor after installation produced brass filings off the rims-- enough to notice. Was it installed wrong or fit wrong?

Clearly the whole extractor is there, just appears wear has removed some extraction width.

Previous one was good for 4000 rds minimum.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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aladin---

The new extractor was fitted wrong.....which is very easy to do.

The fact that the last one lasted 4000 rounds means nothing but illustrate your luck. They can fail on any shot after the first one.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by JBelk:
aladin---

The new extractor was fitted wrong.....which is very easy to do.

The fact that the last one lasted 4000 rounds means nothing but illustrate your luck. They can fail on any shot after the first one.

Could you elaborate on the how's of fitting them incorrectly? TIA.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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aladin----

There's several ways to screw them up....the factory does it all the time.

On push-feed rifles the extractor rotates with the bolt. That means when you chamber a round the extractor then moves a quarter the way around as the bolt closes and then rotates around the case again after it's fired and before extraction takes place. Any sharp edge that bears against the case can cut the brass which hangs up in the bolt face, sometimes jams the ejector, and many times makes the extractor hang up ever worse.

The cure is often some judicious grinding of the underside of the extractor hook. Another spot to check is the rivet, if present. If it's sticking out too far it'll snag the case and whittle a sliver off of it. More times than not a Remington extractor failure is the result of depending too much on what amounts to a steel toenail clipping. [Smile]
 
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Aladin

When fitting a new riveted extractor to a Rem 700 bolt your should:

1. Remove any burrs on the new extractor and the recess in the bolt.

2. Trial fit the new extractor and make sure it can move feely with out binding, if it is binding or sticking, locate those spots and stone them just enough for free movement. You may have to remove burrs from the bolt recess with a woodruff key cutter (scraping by hand not in a machine)

3. Check extractor shape and tension so that it will expose all of the angled portion of the extractor when relaxed but none of the square body.

4. Finally when riveting the extractor in, use a good properly shaped support on the back side. If you dont have the equipment or machinist skills to make one there is a very good commercial one available through Brownells.

When these extractors have the proper shape, tension and are properly deburred they will not leave a lot of brass shavings.

Usually they fail because of lack of cleaning, or firing a round with excessive pressure. The replacements usually fail from improper installation.
 
Posts: 1551 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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[ 02-10-2003, 14:45: Message edited by: Cold Bore ]
 
Posts: 2629 | Registered: 21 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Put in a Sako extractor and forget aobut it for the next hundred years or so.

Ji8m
 
Posts: 5531 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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