I recently picked up a pre-64 Mod 70 in .338WM (the Alaskan model). I bought the rifle from the original owner and it is in excellent condition, except...the stock has a crack in it running from the front action screw to the pistol grip area. I just want to take a 72-hour "reality check" before I attempt a repair.

I have attached photos of the cracked stock. My plan clean the cracked area with acetone and use West System epoxy with compressed air to work it into the recesses (as described by craftsman and others). My plan is to glass bed the action after repairing the stock. At some point I will want to refinish the wood. My concern is that the epoxy will leave a glossy "braze" mark along the repaired area in the pistol grip. Any suggestions?





-- Brian

Compressed air isn't going too help !. A vacuum setup would be MUCH more beneficial .

Think along the lines of a windshield crack repair . A problem with trying too force air into the crack

with air pressure is it will blow the epoxy out of the crack . A more successful method would be PRESSURE

induction . Try taping Vinyl masking tape around entire cracked area where feasible . Then make a plastic

rubber or metal tub ( I once used a plastic Popsicle freezer mold another time a ( bicycle inner tube with

valve stem works SLICK ) . You keep the valve stem up lay it out along your cracked area , now cut it off

too length make it as long as practical for end sealing , try and keep stem over largest area of the crack .

Open tube slip it over cracked stock , I use Surgical tubing and secure an air tight end seal after

stretching the inner tube around my repair .

If you size the inner tube too the stock Diameter FIRST it's a lot easier .

Don't expect a 10 speed racing sew up inter tube to fit ,when a wide tire mountain bike is a better choice .

Anyway sometimes the ends need blocks of wood or dowels rubber or ? if in the barrel channel or magazine

well. Once you MOCK UP the fit Use a HAND PUMP if possible or LOW compressed air pressure , Is the seal

tight ? . Adjust and get it right so it is . Now remove one end , the easy one helps peel tube back best

you can ; Mix epoxy apply be sure and get a small portion along entire crack . I use a syringe without a

needle and it's slick . Pull the tube back into place secure the end . Put a couple of lb air pressure

in and LEAVE it . Hopefully it holds air for 15-30 minutes , if it doesn't you can put air into it from time

to time , however it's BEST if it holds the air which causes a steady pressure and forces epoxy into any

VOIDS . I've seen where quality urethane two component type brushed into light cracks has " Glued " them

together never to open up again . I'm not speaking of Spar varnish or general finishing urethane , but a two

component Aircraft Automotive Marine type it's tough stuff !. Be sure an level stock too the cracks

orientation as best you can , I bet you find it works VERY WELL INDEED !. BOL ...

Doc,

I'm having a very hard time reading your post.

Is there any way you could eliminate the double spacing and write in one-(or two)-sentence paragraphs, separated by a line between. Kinda like this?

I think more people could get the great messages you so earnestly try to communicate!

Very best.

For crying out loud! I've been blowing Acraglas epoxy into stock cracks for over 40 years and it works fine. If the crack is behind the tang, I will often drill a hole along the crack then use a piece of dowel as a piston to force the epoxy out through the crack. I DO often use surgical tubing to bind the stock but sometimes, a clamp works better. The crack may show a bit but a little stain applied judiciously will usually camoflage it OK. Regards, Bill.

I just looked at the pictures. Drill a hole under the tang and along the crack (angle down into the grip). Drill 3/8 inch. Turn a piece of dowel so it slips easily into the hole. Fill the hole with liquid epoxy and shove the dowel in to force the epoxy into the crack. The epoxy should ooze out all along the crack; top and bottom. Leave the dowel in place and let the epoxy set up. Clean up, then glass bed on top of the repair.
Or, you can cut some freakin' inner tube and tape it to the stock and pressurize the whole thing then hope for the best. Geez! Regards, Bill.

quote:

Originally posted by 1 Shot Hunter:
Doc,

I'm having a very hard time reading your post.

Is there any way you could eliminate the double spacing and write in one-(or two)-sentence paragraphs, separated by a line between. Kinda like this?

I think more people could get the great messages you so earnestly try to communicate!

Very best.

+1

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to try Bill's method but instead of a wooden dowel I'll use a stainless steel rod. The crack extends just beyond the front action screw (not shown in the pics). I'll fabricate a staple to "bridge" this area as well. If all goes well it should be harder than the hindges of hell.

-- Brian

quote:

Doc,

I'm having a very hard time reading your post.

Is there any way you could eliminate the double spacing and write in one-(or two)-sentence paragraphs, separated by a line between. Kinda like this?

I think more people could get the great messages you so earnestly try to communicate!

Unfortunately my word processor isn't compatible with Windows anything ,as I don't use a " Normal PC " !.

If I copy and paste an article it duplicates it perfectly .Now when I write it it doesn't , I could use the

Wife's computer which is a Win PC format .