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Which type of wire!!
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Hi Guys!!



What kind of wire are you using when you are welding bolt handle on a mauser bolt body, what type and etc....



Hope to get some answers!!



Best regards.
 
Posts: 21 | Registered: 17 January 2004Reply With Quote
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It depends on the type of welding process. It is not recommended to use gas welding rod for tig welding. There are differences. Mild steel Tig rod is what I use for Tig welding mauser bolts.

gunmaker

P.S. It is helpfull to weld the new handle on the bolt body not the action!
 
Posts: 113 | Registered: 05 April 2004Reply With Quote
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upsssss......Bolt body ofcourse(you are clever)!!





Do you have any comment about this nickel steel welding rod, that Brownells are selling??



What do you call a mild steel Tig rod, can you give me a specific answer Gunmaker??



Thanks for the replays...
 
Posts: 21 | Registered: 17 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Dori
I had to run to the shop and check. I've got a box of Harris ER70-S2. But I'm sure you may get ton of different favorites from others here. I have a pack of the Brownell's stuff, but after asking Ted Blackburn about this he told me to MAKE SURE the rod is made for tig welding and to use mild steel for Mausers. You still haven't said what welding process you are using. The Brownell's stuff might be the ticket for gas welding.
gunmaker
http://users.elknet.net/chico
 
Posts: 113 | Registered: 05 April 2004Reply With Quote
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I would probably Tig the bolt handle...

Thanks for the help!!!!
 
Posts: 21 | Registered: 17 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Off topic a bit but since you seem to be knowledgable about welding maybe you could answer this for me.

I want to attach the magazine box to the action of a Remington 700 SA .308 Cal and need to know if it needs to be TIG welded or if a high temp silver solder would work.

Thanks in advance.

Rick
 
Posts: 494 | Location: Valencia, CA | Registered: 22 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Fro welding on your action, I wuold only use an electrical acr type weld. Solder of any kind, although strong, requires over heating the action.

An electrical arc's heat is at 19,500 degrees, where as the acetlyne flame is 6,500 degrees. The gas flame will result in more heat being absorbed by the outlying metal, changing it's hardness. An arc will have much less effect on the outlying metal. One can weld with the action in a tub of water, with only the welding area exposed above the surface.

The most control of your weld is with a tig(heli-arc)
 
Posts: 40 | Location: California, USA | Registered: 24 July 2003Reply With Quote
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The Brownells wire works well with a torch, if you go that route, but does NOT work with TIG. First hand experience here...
 
Posts: 432 | Location: Baytown, TX | Registered: 07 November 2001Reply With Quote
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You could use RG-60 rod if you are TIG welding. It is a good "all Purpose" rod. I would not use the rod from Brownells or any coated rod for that matter. That coating, copper I believe, can give you all sorts of headaches and then if you get a good weld you may get a copper stain in your weld. Michael
 
Posts: 59 | Registered: 25 April 2004Reply With Quote
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"Tartan" tig rod, mild steel.
 
Posts: 5534 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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I'll second & third the "Tartan Tig" rod suggestion. Will also second the notion of avoiding the Brownells nickle rod UNLESS you are gas welding.
 
Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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I sure would like to buy 20 or 30 buck of Tarten rods from someone. I don't need a $100.00 worth that they want to sell you.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Kobe,
you mention "Tartan Tig" rod. What is it? And who makes it? Better still where might
I get some to try.
thanks,
Lawrence
 
Posts: 11 | Registered: 16 April 2004Reply With Quote
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Rockmount Research. Do a web search. You might want to do a group buy and split with Doug.
 
Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Guys, I am not a welder. I set the bolt and handle up in my jig and take to my welder who uses TIG. I hand him the Brownells nickle steel rods, and he welds the handles on. No issues -- no problems. The joint blues perfectly. What is the deal with opposition to the Brownells rods for TIG welding?

Clemson
 
Posts: 339 | Location: Greenwood, SC | Registered: 06 February 2004Reply With Quote
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There is more to welding a handle on than just the joint bluing nicely. For general gunsmithing purposes the Tartan rod has many benefits. It is triple deoxidized which helps prevent porosity and pits. It blues superbly. It also heat treats. One of the most common complaints about the Brownells rod is that the weld joint is prone to contain voids which show up upon final shaping. You may get ten handles done nicely but then stumble upon several in a row that won't. As I understand it, much of this is due to the composition of the bolt itself. The composition of which can vary.
 
Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Rick
The Rem Rec is probably made of 4130 or 4140 and the mag box should be stamped from 1008. Mild steel rod & tig welding would work, I'm just not sure why you would want to glue them together.
gunmaker
 
Posts: 113 | Registered: 05 April 2004Reply With Quote
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If a couple of you guys want to go in on some Tartan rods, I'd possibly be interested in chipping in for some. Just let me know...

Thanks,

Tex
 
Posts: 1449 | Location: Dallas, Texas | Registered: 24 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Gunmaker,


Quite a few smiths attach the mag box to the receiver on 700's just to simplify things a bit. The Marine Corps armorers have been doing it for years on the M40's and they swear it makes inletting and bedding easier, and improves the reliability of loading and feeding since the box cannot move up and down and possible place the spring and/or follower in a bind. It also makes assembly easier with no chance of having the box pop out of place right when you start torquing the guard screws down.

I have a 700 with the box tig-welded in place but I just wanted to know if there was an easier or better way to do it.

Your "gluing" comment raises an interesting thought, though!

Devcon, maybe???

Rick
 
Posts: 494 | Location: Valencia, CA | Registered: 22 May 2004Reply With Quote
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The Brownells 3.5% nickle rod works great with tig or gas

That is first hand experience!!!
 
Posts: 2362 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Zir that would be great. Count me in.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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