I just read that when one pillar beds a rifle one should drill out the pillars so that the action screws do not touch the pillar beds.

My question then is, what is the use of having pillar bedding if nothing is touching it?

They help insure the stock doesnt compress. If the stock compresses under the pressure of the guard screws the action would lose the consistent pressure that is applied and can slowly work loose. The reason the screws should not touch the inside of the pillars is because if they touch they can take on some of the responsibilities of the recoil lug(s) thus preventing the action from staying firmly in place. If the screws touch the pillars it can also prevent the recoil lug from seating correctly.

Snowwolfe,

Excellent and concise explanation.

I beg your pardon, but I would be 100% sure. Are you saying that the hole inside the pillars should be bigger in diameter than the diameter of the action screws? Is it correct?

wildboar

Yes. you understand right. Also you don't want the screws touching on a none pillar bedded stock either. For the very same reasons Snowwolfe mentioned.

Shawn

Snowwolfe,
As mentioned above, you explained the concept more clearly in one short paragraph than many a long article in many a glossy gun rag.
Even I understand now.
lawndart

I am no so sure I understand.

In order for something to compress it would need to have pressure against it so as to cause it to compress. But if the screws aren't touching anything the cant decompress anything. the only thing the screws would be touching would be the wood which is what you don't want compressed.

Yeah, I know, not the sharpest knife in the drawer?

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
I am no so sure I understand.

In order for something to compress it would need to have pressure against it so as to cause it to compress. But if the screws aren't touching anything the cant decompress anything. the only thing the screws would be touching would be the wood which is what you don't want compressed.

Yeah, I know, not the sharpest knife in the drawer?

The compression is vertically not horizontally. Visualize the pillars as you would a washer (albeit a thick one) placed on a bolt. The bolt head (not the body) is all that makes contact with the washer. In the case of pillars the receiver bottom and the trigger guard tangs are just like the bolt head and the nut with the pillar acting as a sort of washer between the two.

When you tighten your action screws there is pressure on the wood between between the receiver and the bottom metal. Over time that can cause the wood to compress. The pillar is hard and won't compress. Pillars are also a cheap and easy way to correct poor bedding if done correctly.

Ah!! the light bulb is going on.

So if one wants to pillar bed, what determines the exact length of the pillar.

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
Ah!! the light bulb is going on.

So if one wants to pillar bed, what determines the exact length of the pillar.

See, we new you’d catch on!

This is going to sound really stupid and simplistic, but I’m stupid and simplistic and don’t know any other way to answer your question.

Here’s how I do it, and others may have better and/or easier ways. This assumes that the stock you have is the one you will be bedding.

Take your rifle with the guard screws fully tightened and measure (with a dial caliper) from the top of the front guard screw to the top of the front receiver ring, or scope base, whatever the case may be. Write that measurement down. Do the same with the rear guard screw and the top of the receiver tang at the rear where the screw tip protrudes. Write that measurement down.

Now pull the barreled action out of the stock and reassemble the trigger guard to the receiver, tightening the screws until you duplicate the measurements you wrote down.

Now take your dial calipers and measure the distance between the center bottom of the receiver to the top of trigger guard tangs, front and rear. Write those measurements down. This is the length you should cut your pillars.

A bit too long is better than a bit too short since you can trim the bottom of the pillars after they have been installed if your bottom metal needs to seat deeper to be flush with the stock and level and square.

When bedding a Rem 700 I found the simplest way to install pillars is to drill out each action hole with a 1/2 -5/8 drill bit. I then reinstall the action in the stock using action inletting screws (of course release agent was applied and the trigger removed also). I secure the action in the stock using rubber tubing and turn it upside down. I then fill in the screw holes with acra glass. After it hardens I trim down the excess to insure the floorplate fits nicely and then drill out the holes to insure the screws don't touch. I am sure metal pillars are better but these work very well for me.

Snowwolfe;

That really sounds slick - I would assume you are not limited to acra glass as the only pillar product - have you tried any other products???

It is the only thing I have tried. I use the widest spade bit I can fit inside the floorplate opening. Acraglas pours easily.