Ok.. got some questions for you guys who are experienced with glass bedding a savage 110.. Done some research and have some pictures for you to review before I do the deed. Everything I've found on bedding is for a remington 700 rifile so I'm gonna lay out some elementary questions.



I'm assuming that #1 does not get any epoxy, the tang will just float above the stock, yes, no, maby, indifferent?

/\
Spot #2, gets the epoxy and make sure that I prep the inside of the pillar good with a release agent..





/\
Spot #3, same ast Spot #2, gets the epoxy and make sure the release agent is in the pillar.

Not sure about this next one
Spot #4, Can't remember what the "toung" on spot #6 is called, but should spot #6 get release agent and spot #4 get the epoxy?

Spot #5, doesn't get any epoxy (hidden magazine well) , but gets lots of release agent?

and any other part not mensioned gets a good coating of release agent and tape where needed..

recoil lug.. came to me.. sorry..

Looks like you've got the right idea. don't bed the #1, tang area, it's designed to float. If you look at the pillars in the stock, they look to have perfect contact with the action, dead center. Really a little bedding compound around the pillars to keep the action from shifting around, and the recoil lug rear is all that's really needed, anything else will probably not be worth much as far as accuracy is concerned, but you just never know. I think I'd do the minimalist job, you can always add bedding later if you're not satisfied.

These pics were too big for another forum I visit so I resized them for everyone..

also, two pictures I forgot..






The hi res pics can be found here for you guys who want a little more detail..

[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/action1.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/action2.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/pic1.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/pic2.JPG[/url]

Using your photos I bed areas 2,3,4 on a Savage . If you don't want to take off the trigger it can be taped off. Some clay in the grooves of the barrel nut helps to get it out. I'd also drill some small holes at angles in the areas you're bedding to get a place for the epoxy to grab hold.

Here's a bad attempt at scanning a Savage. It works for me but I'd suggest not trying to use olive oil cooking spray as a release agent You'll probably also float the entire barrel with that stock.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/101736/savageinletting.JPG

You've got the right idea. 2,3, and 4 get epoxy. For some more in depth advise go to savageshooters.com. They have some really good pictures and technical articles on beddong and other improvements for Savage rifles. It made bedding my stock a lot easier.

A couple other pieces of advice. Coat the threads on the bolts with paste wax or release agent. Make sure the release agent dries completely, and put it on in thin coats. You have to be really carefull with the barrel nut. Makes sure its coated with release agent, and that no epoxy can squeeze in between the front of the nut and the barrel. A couple of pieces of tape on the barrel will make sure it is still "floated" and keep the epoxy off the barrel. I put a piece of tape over the tang (area 1) as well to ensure it doesn't contact the stock. Use a thick bedding compound like Acra-Glass gel. When you bed area 2 make sure that epoxy doesn't squeeze out of the pillar area and get onto the right side of the trigger. A little material is ok, but if it gets a lot of gunk on that side it will interfere with the bolt release.

ok, started.. ordered my acraglass gel from cheaper than dirt.. (15 bucks). I have started on my stock.. I'm gonna call it step one.. so.. Here are the pics.. Please give me some feed back, pos and negative.. My first attempt. You'll probably get more from the first 4 pictures than the rest, but more is better than not enough, even if they are blury..

The links for the hi res pics are at the bottom.

I'm assuming the pics need no explanation since the ones on page number one basically show what I'm gonna change.. BTW for some reason my camera seems blury.. don't know why.. maby the ones I'll post for "step 2" they will be better..

Will post the next step when I prep the stock and action with the tape...











[url]http://glock.cc/savageHIres/stockHIres2.JPG[/url]
[url]http://glock.cc/savageHIres/stockHIres3.JPG[/url]
[url]http://glock.cc/savageHIres/stockHIres4.JPG[/url]
[url]http://glock.cc/savageHIres/stockHIres5.JPG[/url]
[url]http://glock.cc/savageHIres/stockHIres6.JPG[/url]
[url]http://glock.cc/savageHIres/stockHIres7.JPG[/url]
[url]http://glock.cc/savageHIres/stockHIres8.JPG[/url]

Ok.. Started (and finished, I think) for the most part the prep work.. taping, daming off the cavities, mechanical locks.. Haven't applied the release agent, cause I haven't recieved my acraglas gel kit yet.. So here they are.. On one of the pictures where you see some clay at the end of the stock, only reason I put that there is because I needed something to keep the tape from coming loose, will be removed before the final work.. Also, may look like a lot of tape, but I can fit about any where from 1 dollar to 2 dollar bills anywhere between the action/barrel and the stock. The barrel is way off the stock. No problem there.. Oh and one of the pics I took at such an angle that it makes it hard to see the lug, but it's there.. look on the HIres pics and you will see it..















and the links for the hi res pics

[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep1.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep2.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep3.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep4.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep5.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep6.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep7.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep8.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep9.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep10.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep11.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/prep12.JPG[/url]

Looks like you have everything covered. Make sure you get release agent all over the action where there is no tape. I'd paint it on clear up to the scope mounts. It's impossible to get the epoxy off if you smeat it etc.. when the action is set into the stock. I have a partial epoxy fingerprint on one of my rifles.

one question I had.. When i put down the epoxy, and it seems that it will probably run off areas 2 and 3 onto the modeling clay, after all dries,, it's gonna be kind of a platau held up by the clay, espically to the front and rear of #2.. I'm guessing that needs to get trimmed with an exacto knife after it's all dried?

If you bought Acra-glass gel it won't run. It's very thick. If your using a thin bedding compound it may run. You should build a dam with the clay to keep it in place. Small runs or leaks can be fixed with a dremel tool once it's dry.

Got my acraglass gel today from cheaperthandirt.com... Glassed the rifle.. Looks good.. Will give some narative. Will post the pics tomorrow in the A.M.

Ok.. the pictures... So got the acraglass gel kit.. On pic #1 you'll see I have applied the brownells release agent that comes with acraglass.. If you compare this picture with pictures of the previous post, you will notice that in this picture, the stock and tape on it looks very glossy and shiney.. After applying two cotes of the release agent, you can really tell that the thing is covered in it. I also used clear rubbing alcohol to clean the stock in the areas that would be directly contacting the epoxy.. I used a Q-tip for this..

On pic #2 same thing as pic #1, you can see it too is very glossy. Also I remove the two screws and treated the threads, then replaced, just in case..

On pic #3 you will see that I put down the epoxy.. I filled both sections up to the highest point on the clay damn on either side + just maby a teaspoon extra, where I could see that the action had pushed down on the clay when I was test fitting it.

Pic #4 and #5 are just closeups of the two areas.

Pic #6, put the action on the stock.. The epoxy did seap out of the areas that I bedded on the stock up onto the action.. But as you can see, very minimal and I am assuming that the coverage was good do to the fact that extra epoxy did get pushed out.

Pic #7 As you can see I put the action back on the stock.. Put a mess of rubber bands around both ends of the stock and then wraped a layer of tape in the middle. After that I used a Q-tip to clean off the excess expoxy , then I used a tooth pick to clean the channel just between the stock and the action, after that I hit it with a Q-tip again and then after that used a Q-tip with a little mineral spirits to get the residue off.

Brownells says the action can be removed after 10 hours.. I checked it this morning and the left over I had in the mixing bowl was hard as a brick.. I'll wait till I get home tonight before I yank it out, should be about 20 hours from the time I bedded it till then.


Guess we'll see then how everything looks on the inside.. I'll post some more pictures when I get to that point..










The hi res pics can be found here

[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/glass1HIres.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/glass2HIres.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/glass3HIres.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/glass4HIres.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/glass5HIres.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/glass6HIres.JPG[/url]
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/glass7HIres.JPG[/url]

ok guys it's done...

Pic #1 is as it looks after I seperated the action from the stock... BTW the brownells release agent was AWSOME.. The only part that stuck was a little on the guide bolts threads on the front, should have filled the little bit that was protruding with some clay and then there wouldn't have been a mechanical lock.. no big deal, cam apart with a few wacks with my rubber mallot...


Pic #2 and #3 are close ups of the bedded areas.. #4 includes the action.. At that time it was like christmas.. I unwrapped everything.

Pic #5, Lemme tell you what.. I really think that the hardest part about this whole project was getting ALL that DAMN modeling clay out of ever recess of the stock and action. My got I really did go over board on it, and I did pay.... with my time.. But I guess that's better than a stuck action... Next time though, if there is one I know about how far the bedding will seap, so I won't go nearly as wacko with it. After it was all cleaned up.. I used a box cutter with some of them really thick blades (like the ones they use to trim carpet) to trim up the epoxy.. As you can see it worked very well, and the bedding came out looking really sharp... I was expecting at the minuium to see a few air bubbles or something, but it turned out perfect..

Pic #6 and #7, a close of of the cleaned up bedded areas.. Sorry, #6 came out a bit blury..


Pic #8, a view down the stock.. Just to give you an idea of how it moulded with the pillars..


Pic #9, the reassembled rifle.. cut out some card board squares from a budweiser box, and then inserted between the stock and the action to show you that the action and the rifle do not touch anywhere except for the bedded areas...

If you ask me, I'd say that this turned out way better than I expected.. And if I can do it, anyone can do it.. It was time consuming though, I'd estimate that I probably spent 2 hours a day for 4 days on it.. I'm not really sure how much a smith would have charged to do it, I've seen prices up to 200 bucks, but it cost me roughtly 50 bucks..
15+5 for the acraglass gel
10 bucks for the 3M blue tape (!$#!@ that's what I said, 10 BUCK for a little role of tape)

10 bucks for a set of allen hex tips for the torque driver that I have.

so about 50 bucks for everything.

I'm will be getting my new scope next friday and I will go out to the range the week after that and put it to the test.. I will post some paper results when I get them. Probably some time on the week of July the 11th..












And the HI res pics

[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded1HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded2HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded3HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded4HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded5HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded6HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded7HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded8HIres.JPG[url]
[/url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/bedded9HIres.JPG[url]

Ok.. Took her to the range.. Along with the new bed, she also has a new scope and a new brand of projectiles.. So I ran some remington corelocks through there, 165 grain.. That ammo is trash.. some groups were good, others had wild deviations, up to 2 inches at 100yards, was bearly able to get it sighted it.. After running about 12 of them through the old '06, I started with my nosler BT 165 grains.. Had sets of 3 rounds from 55.5 grain in .5 grain increments going up to 58.0 grains of H4350 with a col of 3.230 and federal 210 primers.. The rifle absolutly loved the 57grain loads (this must be a commonly accurate load, I have had several recommendations from other boards for this exact combination), and I might add, the best groups I have ever shot out of the gun. On top of that I usually shoot about on average 20 rounds a year out of it, with a factory trigger,(which does suck, that may be the next project), so I wouldn't really call my self a particularly good shooter. So here is the picture, the target was shot at 100 yards and it appears to be a 7/8" group.


This is the end of this project. Thanks to all of you that helped.



And the Hi res pic
[url]http://ultrafunky.com/savageHIres/puddingHIres.JPG[/url]

The pictures had to be moved to a new site.. If anyone still needs to take a look at them they are moved to here..I'm not moving the commentary..

http://gallery.ultrafunky.com/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=4519