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Need help choosing!! (Stock blank)
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Picture of Tomjac
posted
I am about to have a Montana Rifleman M1999 SA in 450 SM (it's a 2,1" long 458/300RUM). I have found some stock blanks but I have a hard time chooing one, will you help me. One is a California English Walnut the other is a Bastogne Walnut, both has the same price tag.

California English Walnut
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Bastogne Walnut
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Posts: 191 | Location: Kolbjørnsvik, Norway | Registered: 21 February 2003Reply With Quote
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I like the Bastogne Walnut. That piece will look "righteous" after about 20 coats of tung oil.
 
Posts: 3822 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
Tomjac---

Slab sawn English is stronger than eighth sawed Bastogne.

I personally don't care for either one, so if ask to choose I'd say "none of the above."
 
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JBelk,
If you can help my finding a good stock blank I would be pleased! I whas thinking about paying $500-700.

[ 03-31-2003, 00:18: Message edited by: Tomjac ]
 
Posts: 191 | Location: Kolbjørnsvik, Norway | Registered: 21 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Tomjac, if it was me, I would use the Bastogne piece. Best to see them in the flesh though. I have only bought one without looking at it was a mistake. Lately I have just been driving to Dressels when I need one as it is only 90 minutes from my home. A bit further from yours. [Smile] Next time I go, I could check if you haven't gotten anything yet. Jack may have some ready sources also.

[ 03-31-2003, 01:44: Message edited by: Customstox ]
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
Tomjac---

I'd be pleased to help.

I assume this 450 caliber is a heavy kicking caliber that needs strong blank. Do you have a preferrence for color and grain?

How soon will it be cut for a stock?

The best I can do is write an email of "introduction" to Steve Heilmann and give him your email so he can send some pictures of suitable wood.

He's a better judge of good wood than I am and absolutely honest. He carries NO wood that he wouldn't use himself. If he says it's dry it's dry, and if he says it's a good blank for heavy recoil, it is.

You can save money by buying wood not quite ready to cut.

He has both slab and quarter sawn and I've never seen a bad blank out of the 200 or so he displays for sale each year at the ACGG show.

(He'd also get my vote as the best gunmaker on the planet, but don't tell I said so.) [Smile]
 
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Of the two, I like the Bastogne.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Jack, I think you can extend Steve
s realm to the Universe. He would be the best judge for this rifle to be sure.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I would be interested in his contact information. I hope to get a really nicely stocked rifle built before too long. :-)

Red
 
Posts: 4740 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003Reply With Quote
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JBelk
I might just send the e-mail to Steve selves if you don�t mind. No offence.

What is the difference between quarter-sawn blanks and slab-sawn blanks? Straight grain, fiddleback, feather crotch and marble?

Is there any web site the describe blanks quality, tings to look for and so on?

2.1� 450/300RUM I would say is a mild 458WinMag in recoil.

I also found this one, it is a Turkish walnut piece.

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Posts: 191 | Location: Kolbjørnsvik, Norway | Registered: 21 February 2003Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
Tomjac---

That piece of Turkish is fabulous!!........for a two piece stock. It's totally backwards for a rifle. Weatherby would LOVE it. LOL

Looking at the blank from the rear, Quarter-sawn grain runs from 3 to 9 O'clock. Slab sawn wood has the grain running from 12 to 6.

I prefer quarter-sawn, but both makes great stocks.

Those blanks, like the Bastogne above, that has the grain running from 10 to 4 or 2 to 8 O'clock,(eighth-sawn) is weaker through the grip and best used on light recoiling rifles.

The Turkish blank looks to be quarter-sawn but the grain has a big dip in it through the middle. That puts the grain of the wood inclined upward through the grip and VERY weak. Such stocks can break just from firing. It would be great on a Number One, though!!

Write Steve and tell him you need help, what action and approximate recoil level you'll have. He'll help you out.......and like I say. He's the best and he's honest. That's a hard combination to beat.
 
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Jack if you can tell that is cut that way from the sides you are doing better than me. I have seen quarter sawn that looks like that with a swirl on the one side. Understand where you are coming from but I would want an endo shot to verify. Actually, I would want Steve doing the looking or be doing it myself in the flesh.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
Chic---

Exactly!! It is mighty hard to judge grain by the mineral marks because they don't usually jive.

I usually spend an hour or more looking, fondling, and inspecting a blank before laying down money for it. I like to tap with knuckles and carve a slice of cross grain with my pocket knife to get an idea of the wood character.

I concur........let Steve pick. [Smile]
 
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<Kboom>
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Tomjac,
Here is a sight that offers a primer on choosing wood. I think you will find that differant people have differant opinions on wood.
http://gunshop.com/phiatt2.htm
best of luck.
 
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I've seen Chic in action. I think it is akin to Spock's Vulcan mind meld. When he comes across the right blank it speaks to him. The results are fantastic [Big Grin]

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Jeff

[ 04-01-2003, 20:32: Message edited by: Skibum ]
 
Posts: 784 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 18 December 2000Reply With Quote
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