I bought a used base that needs to be bedded to the action but did not recieve the instructions on how to. Rather than ruining the matte finish on my rifle I would like some one that can fax me a copy or tell me the tricks . Should I use the agri. jell or opoxy. I think i should plug the rear screw holes and coat with release agent, spread the opoxy in the rear and not the front of the base, then use the two front screws to hold the base in place till it cures, then opoxy the front and use the rear screws to hold in place till cured.

[ 05-11-2003, 18:53: Message edited by: gsp ]

gsp,

Just curious, what action is it for, and, why do you need to "bed" the base?

Malm

It is a Remington 700 LTR short action in 308.
When the front screws are tightened, there is a 1/16" gap between the rear of the action and the base. If I tighten the rear screws it will bend the base. This is a 20 moa base, if I tighten the rear screws first I believe I will loose the 20 moa, but not sure.

GSP-I have used the badger bases for the M700 and the 20moa comeup is built into the angle of the base. It should not be hanging in the air, do you have any tools to check it and confirm it is not damaged/warped/tweaked?

I used a straight edge across the top of the base and it has no warpage that I can see.
I asked this question at sniper hide and had a reply that it should be bedded, but no response on how to.

Nevermind!!

[ 05-11-2003, 18:06: Message edited by: Holmes ]

gsp,

Yes, you don't want to do anything that would bend, bow or torque the base out of true. I think for the overall health of your scope mounting system you would be better off carefully removing material from the front of the base until you get the correct fit and so as to maintain the 20 minute feature. Using epoxy to fill a gap is like using a shim and in my opinion would be a lazy way to address the problem...

Good luck,

Malm

G. Malmborg, Some how I had a feeling you were going to make me take the hard road. Could it be done on a mill or should it be done by hand.
How do I make sure not to ruin the taper?

gsp,

First, figure out exactly how much of a gap exists when the base is tightened using only the front screws. Remove this amount from the bottom of the front of the base. The taper is built into the top of the base and it relies on the bottom of the base being parallel with the receiver. As long as you drop the sight base straight down and maintain this parallel relationship between the bottom of the base and the receiver, then you should be fine on the taper.

How to do it... Hmmmm, you will need to use something that will cut a diameter of 1.355 to match the Remington receiver. I do sight base profiling on the lathe. It works really slick and is the perfect set up for this type of work without CNC equipment.

This type of profiling would be difficult to set up for and perform on a standard vertical milling machine but hey, there's good news. You can box it up and send it to me and I will do it for you for a nominal fee.


Good luck,

Malm

Is the base steel or Aluminum? I'm assuming it is steel, but on the chance it is Al there would be a few ways of accurately removing 1/16" by hand.

Also, have you thought of sending it back to Badger and have them check it out for you? I know you bought it used but if there is a manufacturing problem associated with it most companies (usually!) stand behind their work.