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Welding bolt handles?
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What TIG settings are used when welding on bolt handles? AMP setting, and filler size?
Thanks in advance.
MR
 
Posts: 58 | Location: ALASKA | Registered: 02 March 2001Reply With Quote
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MR,

Check with Jeff Hicks at hdrifles.com or
George Gardner at gaprecision.net. Both are fine gunsmiths and both perform bolt handle mod's on M700 so they may be able to give the info you are looking for.

Best

True EYes
 
Posts: 198 | Registered: 19 November 2002Reply With Quote
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MR, I use 1/16 filler rod. The setting on the machine is between 90-100. I don't know what amperage the weld is done at since the foot pedal backs that off, but that's plenty of current with a 3/32 electrode.

This is for welding Mauser handles, the only ones I have any experience with. You may want to go easier if you're doing Remington or Winchesters so as not to undo the solder joint.

Here's a tip for Mauser bolt welding that I'll attribute to Jack Belk. I use to weld the handle on as a butt joint, v-grooved, all 4 sides. I did the last two as a large filet. Picture the end of the bolt stub as a vertical surface (OK there's a little angle to it) and the handle end as a horizontal surface with the corners of the two parts touching. It looks like it would be a lot more welding but it really isn't. It gets rid of the headache of welding the underneath side of the stub. All welding is from the top side. Set up just under 1/16 space between the parts, make the root pass hot with plenty of filler and the bottom side comes out beautiful with very little clean-up. According to Jack, pits and inclusions in the weld are caused by the air trapped between the two pieces when done as a butt joint. He must be right because neither of the two I did his way have had any.

Maybe this isn't anything new to you, but it was a revelation to me. Maybe everyone else knew it, they just weren't telling me about it.
 
Posts: 545 | Location: Liberty, MO | Registered: 21 January 2003Reply With Quote
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I agree about Jack's tip it really saves a ton of time. In fact, I consider myself a good welder, not a pro, but until Jack shared his tips, I had just about given up on Mauser handles.

I use either a 3/32 or 1/16 tungsten. I set my little Miller machine at 130 amps, but like M. Pursell said the pedal reduces that unless you are at full throttle. I use Tartan Tig rod like Jack recommended. I believe it is 3/32 rod.

[ 08-04-2003, 05:40: Message edited by: z1r ]
 
Posts: 4865 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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z1r, how do you like the Tartan rod? I contacted Rockmount after I heard Jack recommend it. The $100 minimum put me off. How much rod is in a $100 order? I can see me having so much Tartan rod that I'll be using it for tomato stakes into the next century. I'm reconsidering my reluctance and might place a minumum order split into 2 or 3 sizes of rod.

Mark
 
Posts: 545 | Location: Liberty, MO | Registered: 21 January 2003Reply With Quote
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I was put off by the minimum too especially since I�m just a wannabe (mostly self taught student with lots of help from the great folks on this board). But, I�ve done about 10 handles since and I feel it is well worth it. I believe $100 gets you about 10 lbs worth. I remember Jack saying he is still working on his original batch which is at least ten years old. Jack also uses some Tartan mig wire for the small stuff. Do a search, he posted this stuff here early last year I believe.

I never thought to ask about splitting the order into different sizes. Let me know if they do that.
 
Posts: 4865 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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