If one of you gunsmiths would graciously list step by step the procedure for opening a rem 700 bolt face to accept a larger case I would appriciate it greatly.
Thanks in advance.
Dave

Dave---

The BEST way is to remove the old extractor and ejector and turn the bolt face out to where there's just a rim left. Then turn a bushing that's soldered into the face then a Sako-style extractor fitted.

Dave,

The following steps will work most of the time when going from 30-06 size to Magnum. Whenever I make these modifications, I always install the SAKO style extractor system in place of the Remington.

1. Strip the bolt.
2. Remove bolt nose ejector and extractor and rivet if equipped.
3. Machine turn a threaded mandrel that will fit into the bolts body. Once machined, leave in place to maintain precision alignment with the machine.
4. Thread bolt onto mandrel
5. CAREFULLY place pointy end of precision live center of tailstock into firing pin hole.
6. CAREFULLY set up and dial steady rest to run on the bolts body immediately behind the recoil lugs.
7. Withdraw tailstock.
8. With a small precision bolt face tool or as I use, a Circle Industries boring bar and carbide insert, remove the material necessary to bring the bolt face to the diameter you need being extremely careful not to plunge beyond the existing bolt face.
9. Once at the desired diameter. Take a clean up cut of .001 across the bolts face to clean and true.

As always, if you have never done this before, get with someone experienced in doing this who can assist you if you get stuck. Go slow and think every step through before you make any cut.

Good luck,

Malm

Dave,

Yes, I agree with Jack. The bushing removes all the original extractor cuts and provides a solid circle to encase the cartridge head. This reduces any possibility of bolt nose interference during ejection.

This little important addition requires EXTREME CAUTION as you are applying heat in an area where any metallurgical change can have disastrous results.

Can you open the Remington 700 bolt without the use of this bushing? Yes, however, you run the very real risk of having ejection trouble.

Good luck,

Malm

If you're making a cut to true the bolt face, would that also improve accuracy?

What are the drawbacks to this procedure?

Thanks guys for your quick responses and help. I've been a machinist for 12 years, I shouldnt have any problem performing this operation.
Just wanted to get a step by step procedure instead of thinking like a machinist instead of a gunsmith and going about it the wrong way.

Mr. Malmborg
With the exception of the extractor/ejector steps, is this the same procedure you would use on a Mauser bolt?

RENRAF,

Basically yes. You remove ONLY enough material to the size needed. You will not be needing to bush the bolt face so stop when you get to the desired diameter.

Remember, you perform this operation by truing off the bolts body. Sometimes, the firing pin hole and bolt body do not jive. It is important that you make certain that the bolts body is running true for this operation. Make the neccessary adjustments to the steady rest and let the firing pin hole run as it will. A firing pin hole that is a little off center, is not that big of deal unless you are building a precision benchrest weapon, in which case you would choose an action which is better suited for the modifications needed to correct this type of misalignment.

Once the bolts face is open, you will need to widen the opening at the bottom of the bolt face, where the case head slides. Remove only what is needed to pass the case head. IF YOU REMOVE TOO MUCH MATERIAL HERE, you may lose the support needed to keep the case from falling from the bolts face when extracting which will cause a failure to eject.

To open this area, use a milling machine, or, if you have a steady hand and a practiced eye, you can use a cutoff disk and a rotary tool like the Foredom or Dremel. Go slow and check the progress continuously. Don't over do it.

Nebraska,

Truing the bolts face is a step towards accuracy, but by itself does little if other areas of the action are not addressed at the same time. The only drawback would be removing too much material and ruining a good bolt.

Good luck,

Malm

[ 02-06-2003, 01:09: Message edited by: G.Malmborg ]

If you are a machinist you probably have the skills to make the modification w/o going to a Sako extractor. I've installed a dozen or so Sako extractors but I do not really like them. For my 700 Rem S.A. WSM, I removed the riveted extractor and machined the bolt snout to accept a Remington 700 magnum extractor. It works great and I still have my bolt snout integrity. The "three rings of steel" really do contain the case head and all of the little pieces when serious overloads happen. A 1/2" dia. X .125 thick keyway cutter can be ground to about .112 thickness to cut the bolt snout out to accept the magnum extractor.