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How would you attach a front sling stud to a Browning BLR Lightweight such as this one: http://www.browning.com/produc...-lightweight-81.html My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost. | ||
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Several places make a swivel that simply replaces the factory spacer on the front. https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...browning-blr-1-black Remove that front screw remove spacer install the swivel and reinstall the end screw As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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There are two types in the BLR81 Lightweight. In the first there is a bolt in the very tip of the forend that holds the forearm on. The Uncle Mikes kit has a metal ring with the front stud on it that replaces the spacer ring on that rod. The rear stud is drilled and screwed into the buttstock as normal. The BLR81 Takedown does not have the rod but uses a single screw to hold the forend on, the same as is accomplished in the 99 Savage. The forearm in the BLR81 Takedown can be drilled for the standard machine screw stud just like it is in bolt action rifles. When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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I used the Uncle Mikes set on my BLR 81. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
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Reference Speerchuckers post..I have on occasion used a pre 64 rear swivel, cut off the loop, threaded it to fit the forend on a Savage 99, making a combo forend screw and swivel. you need to drive the pin out of the swivel and perhaps open the hole a tad..Makes a very nice addition to a front swivel in a 99..Im sure something similar would work on the BLR.. Another option is to solder a swivel on the barrel or use a barrel band swivel, with a Barrel band swivel you might want to cut the top out and contour it then solder of d&t it. as getting it over the front sight could be problematic. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Decided to work on my takedown model first. After breaking the rifle down removed the screw under the forearm. I think there is a pin holding the barrel band in place. Before I started beating on something wanted to check with the experts to know how to proceed getting the barrel band and forearm off. My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost. | |||
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Yes there is a pin that has to be driven out. They are generally a one way pin with splines on one end. You should be able to use a magnifying glass and determine which end has the spline. You drive from the opposite side of the spline, so that the splined part comes out first. IDEALLY ! But most have them get driven out the wrong way eventually.  When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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The Uncle Mikes kit worked great on the blued .358. The regular studs worked good on the TD stainless model. The pin holding the band in place drives out from the right side to the left. I remember from previous installs how difficult it was to stay centered on the rear stock and keep the drill bit at the correct angle. So this time purchased a small drill guide and taped it in place before drilling. Worked like a charm. My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost. | |||
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