In the 416 made by Mr Burgess on a Enfield P 17/14 , he made a new bolt stop or a replacement one , anyone know how to do it , or where to find one ?

Regards
Daniel

I've been patiently watching this post hoping someone will reply with some information. I am also interested in a good way to do this. I do not think you can purchase one of these, as it probably will have to be custom made. I have seen this done a couple of different ways, one was where the spring was bent around the back end of the bolt release at 90 degrees and cut off where it touches the receiver. On another a little flat piece of metal was attached (welded ?) to the side of the receiver to support the spring, just back of the bolt stop lever hinge. In both these examples barely enough pressure was applied to keep the bolt stop release lever flat against the side of the receiver. I think a little more spring pressure is required.
I hope someone with more information replies to this post.

Thanks , Hart

Well, I was hoping Tom would tell me how he does it so I could learn something.

I've only done a couple and I silver soldered a block just behind the hinge screw for the spring to rest on.

I shaped the block to the same radius as the back of the housing so that the box fit in the "socket" of the spring block. It looked good thirty years ago but that could be just the fog of wishful thinking.

Special bolt stops for P 14, P17. Not cutting the bullet ramp any further forward than it was from the original military alignment slot means moving back wall of magazine to rear for long ctgs..This means for Rigby, 3.2mm/ .125" of the original bolt stop face must be cut back. It has not proved out to be smart to simply weld a gob and file off for a presentable altered bolt stop and the fit up of the military parts is poor. I simply made the holding fixtures and shaped cutters to make a new bolt stop. Designed an altered form for the ejector which uses a coil spring in the bolt stop. I simply file the ejector blade into the newly required form, wincing everytime I break off the original flat spring. For the 3.6" long ctgs the original is just fine with a little trimmed off the stop lug face, but if you are making a paired set of rifles, it means making a bolt stop for cosmetic reasons for the belted H&H lengths. Grumble. The .340 Weatherby is now such that it is prudent to make the magazine box long enough to handle ctgs. of the revised specification.( almost 3.750 long inside box length) You do not want to ask me just how firmly I have the new .340 spec length in mind. I used a blank made for .416 Rigby for the lone .340 "3UE/2" paired with a Rigby. Didn't want to chance owner "Feeling the difference" in bolt not coming to the rear quite as far as for the Rigby. You laugh? More than one old time Brit African hunter remarked on the "undesirable" time lost in traveling the Mauser Magnum bolt for ctg. feed over the standard length. "If they believe it, it is so". For me more time is lost in bolt wobble at start than "throw".
The stop face further to the rear means cutting the receiver matching stop face to match. I use a gage to do this. The screw hole for the stop is of generous dimensions in the receiver lug so that the slamming of bolt to rear in no way will be absorbed by the screw. To do otherwise is an invitation to some sort of disaster.
I followed the Tee slot approach used by Mauser for the stop- flat spring. The spring rests against an applied spring rest exactly as Jack Belk describes. On the very first Ultimate Enfields (1 UE), and that was not my term, I bent the original military spring over at 90 degrees and when some of the various makes proved to be too thin to be stiff enough I silver brazed a piece at rear face of receiver lug, Liked that better and stayed with the idea. Cut off sight protector ears from the bridge made good material for the purpose. Once it became apparent that an entirely new bolt stop was required I started with the idea of making it no more massive than the Mauser. The added turn surface which BSA dreamed up to take the wobble out of the bolt stop in order that it could accomodate the volley sight attachment from the P13, and P14 utilised two little thumbnail cuts in the receiver. This did the job. Following that design, then trying to accomodate the rest of the mechanical requirements of the action design proportioned the new part larger and finally same length because this would eliminate welding on the bridge area and more work than it was worth, simply because the ejector would have been longer than the Mauser and it is seemingly more appropriate to have the stop as long as the blade ( easier to assemble in the field if need be).

So, Daniel, Muy Amigo, Because of the work involved I felt it better to hold my tongue, not to answer, although, I am certain that you could have the part made in the famous gunmaking areas to the North of you a few Km. I have provided the information needed, but it will require re-reading to translate the requirements and the maker would build around methods most familiar on the machines and tools available for a One of in the result at any rate.

Material? 42 carbon once called ordnance steel. and the spring? While the world mood seemed to be bent on converting swords to plow shares In obstinancy I reversed the procedure. I used some steel from a Hay swather- new but superceded part. 70 carbon but a form of Chrome -moly spring steel. Heat treats by eyeball for colors and blues up just fine and dandy .

Gentlemen
I have a pattern 14 Enfield action. I've had the barrel removed, gave the stock and such away. This is an Eddystone action, I doubt that it has seen much use outside of being used as a drill rifle.
What's the cost in converting this action to something usable. I mean milling off the ears, reworking the magazine, installing barrel, etc.
Creating a functioning rifle, utilitarian rifle.
Jim

Daniel,

Issues 79 and 80 of Gunmaker, the newsletter of the American Custom Gunmakers Guild, has an article by James Wisner on his methods of modifying P-14s for .416 Rigby and .505 Gibbs.

Try the ACGG website for back issues.

I also was waiting for Mr Burgess to reply.

A few years ago, I made some prototype Mauser stlye bolt stops for the Enfield action. I came up with four models. The 1914 bolt stop vs the reciever being different than the 1917 bolt stop vs the reciever. And then two lengths of the stops, one standard and one for the 416 Rigby and 505 Gibbs.

Made about 10 of them and sold them. I have put making anymore on the back burner untill I have time to make them on a CNC mill, hopefully next year.

Hola Systeme , thank you very much for the explanation , for the moment I'll solver solder a block at the rear as Jack Belk explained and will wait until Jim have a new bolt stop box as a replacement , to much work to made a new one , if for famous gun making area in Spain you mean Eibar , there is not the place to ask for this part , they have a speciality , shotguns SXS custom made the very best an at affordable price , but not work on bolt actions , by the way it�s not north for me it�s East I live 150 kms West of Eibar Muchas Gracias

Kitchen

Thank you for the idea of ACGG I'll order back issues .

Best regards

Daniel