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locktite or epoxy on a scope base???
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I've never used it, but have seen scope bases installed with epoxy on the bottom of the base....sort of like bedding the base.....just wondering if this is a wise practice on something with serious recoil???
 
Posts: 1499 | Location: NE Okla | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
<Rezdog>
posted
I slather my bases up with epoxy and then install the screws with red Loc-Tite. A good bit of epoxy oozes into the screw holes and I don't bother to clean it out. My aim is for the bases to last a lifetime or even longer!
 
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It is doable, but I see little reason for it, if one cleans his screw and holes with acetone or what ever then the screws will seize plenty tight and knowing how to set a screw helps a lot..I also hand fit my bases or have them hand fitted..A little locktite on the screws them selves is OK if it makes you feel better..If I was going that far I'd use accraglas and really set them in there...
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I clean the bottom's of the scope bases and the base screw holes with acetone or alcohol and mount everything in JB Weld... screws included. It'll never comes lose that way... I do this for everything from 223 Rem on up. This gives you the solid mounting assurance of the Ruger M77. To remove, kiss with a torch or soldering iron.

BA
 
Posts: 3526 | Registered: 27 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I used steel filled epoxy and cardboard shims at the corners to level up some Weaver bases on a FN military action that had been ground. Used a wax release agent and the job was perfect. I also know my bases have 100% contact with the receiver. Been hunting with it for 3 years and they are still rock solid.
 
Posts: 3831 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
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I have seen a requirement for epoxy in a few applications, for example, when putting a scope on a .454 Casull revolver using only two scope mount rings. I also had to epoxy the forend cap and receiver sight onto a 7 pound .450 Alaskan built on an M 71 Winchester. The forend broke the forend bracket out of its barrel slot, and the rear sight would bounce loose in five or six rounds. But, I generally DO use BLUE Loctite when mounting scopes. I like to be able to remove a scope if the need arises, and you certainly have a lifetime installation if you use epoxy on the screws!!

[ 04-20-2003, 17:57: Message edited by: eldeguello ]
 
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I have finally reached the age where I can tell myself "it's my gun, and I can do with it what I want". Along the way, I reassured myself that I could use epoxy or red Loctite to mount scope bases, and I could get those little 6-48 screws out any time I wanted to; with a #28 drill. Then tap the holes for 8-40 screws.

H. C.
 
Posts: 3691 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 23 May 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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I've never used either and never seen a need to. If the mounts fit right and the screws are torqued right they don't come loose.

I did shoot a whole summer with a Targetspot on bases that were epoxied on the barrel with no screws...that worked good. [Smile]
 
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Epoxy the bases and screws to the action? I would recommend it on any rifle with non-integral bases. It is fool proof. Not just glass bedded to the receiver, but fully bonded, screws and bases.

I started off converting the 6x48 screws to 8x40 screws on most kickers. Then degreased and used blue Locktite.

Now I routinely epoxy the bases and screws with JB Weld. It removes easily with a torch, as stated above, but this is rarely necessary.

Lately I have been doing this at any chance I get, as with epoxy, the 6x48 screw is good enough, but I like to epoxy the 8x40's too.

I also would recommend integral bases like on the Ruger, CZ, BRNO, but I do hate those Sako dovetails, only because decent rings are hard to find. Optilocks? Ha Ha.
 
Posts: 28032 | Location: KY | Registered: 09 December 2001Reply With Quote
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