I've been working on a widow's peak cap for "some" time now, carefully cutting the cap for a ledge, filing the ledge into a peak running from the top of the cap (the barrel channel) to the bottom (of the stock), trying to file the matching groove in the stock, but is there a secret to squaring each "side" of the cap (on either side of the peak) to the stock? Do you ultimately interference sand the peak against the stock? Is there a better way? HELP! I'm going crazy!!!!

AAAAARRRGGGGGG....

MKane160

McKane: I haven't done one of these and hopefully someone who has will tell us the correct way. At risk of being the fool here's how I would approach it if I were to do one.

I would relieve the wood on the stock and the tip to within about 3/16ths of an inch of any edge that shows including the barrel channel. Then using a marking compound I would scrape fit the now raised edges to tight fit. Clean both surfaces with degreaser or possibly acetone. I would then use a died bedding compound to fill the void in the cap and stock and effect the join with a clamp.

I assume you pre-drilled both stock and tip for dowels before cutting?

Maybe Chic or Judson will tell us how it should be done.

Mike, are you talking about an ebony fore end tip with a Widow's peak or a metal fore end cap for a manlicher length? The easiest way to do the ebony one is with a mill. Okay you don't have one in your back pocket. Use prussian blue on the shaped forend tip and inlet it just like you would metal. Get the outer edge touching well. Then mix up epoxy and use lamp black and mix it in so the epoxy is black and if there is a little seam, you will not see it.

Thanks, Chic. It's African blackwood, actually. Was I right to make the ridge ("peak") from top to bottom, or does this just not matter? I get the feeling I've made this harder than it had to be.....

MKane160

Several companies make a double sided rounding over router bit. They are made in common sizes (3/8") that would cut the the female inlet into the stock itself. I've often thought of making a fixture to do just that. I just don't think I do enough stock work to warrant it. I know Maurice had a bit like I described that he mounted in his mill to make the cut.

Photos?

Mike, the ridge goes all the way to the barrel channel. It doesnt need to but it would be more trouble to do otherwise.

Roger, I just checked my Ottmar cutters and can't find it. I am sure he used one too on the stock and a ball end mill on the contrasting wood.

Doug, it is one of those curved pointy things at the bottom of a contrasting wood fore end tip. Damn, that wasn't much of an explanation. How have you been, haven't seen much of you in here lately but I haven't been here as much either.

I would think that you could do it the same way I do a Sivlers type recoil pad that has the widows peak..

I hollow out the top of the butt about 1/4 inch below the comb line, about the size of a nickle, then chisle out the peak a bit, then inlet it with prussian blue, lipstick or whatever..When perfectly fitted I fill up the hollow portion with black glass and screw it all down..then finish the wood to the pad..Looks nice, is quick and easy to do, and much stonger than if I just inletted the whole thing in...

First of all, thanks for all of the replies. I guess my biggest problem is squaring each "side" of the cap (on each side of the peak) to each other and the foreend, without altering the peak itself. I'm trying to do this with fine files with safe sides, but as I file each side, I keep altering the peak, which then doesn't fit the female groove in the foreend. Let me get after it some more, I'll be back if the urge to shoot myself surfaces again......

I'm going to have to get much better at hiding my mistakes......I think this is called "learning".

MKane160

I believe this is what Scrollcutter is referring to wrt router bits - One of my favorite router bit sources Woodline calls them "Point Cutting Roundover" bits. Here's a link with pictures:
Point Cutting Roundover router bits

Jeff P

Chic' I WAS working straight graveyard shift. Now Im straight days & I have a life again!

Doug, good to have you back.