I've got a post-64 Wincester Model 70 that I want to shorten the stock on and add a recoil pad. How tough is it to do yourself? I'd like to take something like an inch and a half off, and add a one inch thick pad. Basically, I want to exchange the plastic buttplate for a recoil pad, and shorten the LOP by half an inch. My main concern is how to measure for the new recoil pad. I have plenty of woodworking tools, and will probably do the cutting on a scroll saw.

Best way is to place masking tape around the stock at the cut line. Have the new recoil pad in hand before you try to measure and cut the stock. You should rig up a fence on your saw before attempting to cut the stock. Draw a pencil line on the stock where you plan to cut after carefully measuring for the inch and a half. You will have to shim the stock somehow to maintain a square cut,otherwise the pad will sit at an angle. You want to maintain the same angle from toe to heel on the stock otherwise the rifle may either rise up on recoil or try to drop away from your face on fireing. Keeping the stock tight against the fence will assist in maintaining the proper angle.
A scroll saw may not be the best tool to cut the stock since the blade may try to wander causing a crooked cut. I use a band saw to cut my stocks. I then sand the cut line on a band sander to smooth out the cut. Be sure to apply some kind of stock finish to seal the butt before mounting and grinding the pad. Be sure to get the smallest size pad and be able to still maintain the angle line at the toe of the stock.
Good luck. Hope this helps.

As a pro gunsmith who does this sort of thing all the time, I would advise you to let a pro do this job for you...it's very easy to make BIG mistakes on this work and wind up with something you won't be happy with...the stock cut must be straight and true and at the correct angle and the pad must be ground to match the contour of the stock and fit closely...just my 2cents

Problem is, there are zero gunsmiths in my area that I would trust, even to mount a scope. One guy does OK work, but his turnaround is about 3 years, and he tends to disassemble a rifle to the point that its no longer shootable, then refuses to give it back when you get pissed off at him for taking forever. He has had my friend's rifle since 2001, to install a peep sight (it's a '95 mauser), and to my knowledge has not returned it to date. Of course, he took the original sights off within a few weeks of getting the gun, and left it at that. There is the possibility of having one of the smiths who work for the local Gander Mtn do it, but they are swamped right now with deer season coming up and will be unlikely to get it done very soon.

I really don't want to send the stock off just to get it shortened; in fact, I'd rather just keep the rifle the way it is than go to all that trouble. The wood is not anything special (not even walnut) anyway, so if I screw it up, it's not the end of the world, and it will give me an excuse to get a new, nicer stock.

if you think you will do this again at some point invest in the setups from brownells that help with getting the pad right. I was told the best one is the one that hangs down holding the pad. You use a disc sander and it automatically carries the lines of the stock through the pad so it all looks right when finished.

A note on professional gunsmiths. I have had all my pads mounted by professional gunsmiths here in my town. And I don't think I have a single one that fits just right, without hanging over in spots. And I am the type of person that when I feel that on the stock I am constantly feeling it, rubbing it, just getting distracted. So by all means try it on your own if you think you can get it right, you said it wasn't a real high $$ piece of wood.

Red

A scroll saw isn't going to do the job. You need a dead flat square cut on a table saw with a single wrapping of masking tape to prevent chip out. A high quality carbide tooth cut off blade is strongly recommended. Remember to remove the old pad and the screws before you make the cut... Some 220 grit paper is laid flat on the table saw and the back of the pad is flat sanded.

I've gotten by with a disk sanding pad in a drill clamped in my vise. But a disk sander greatly simplifies the operation. In this case, I wrap the stock with duct tape and cut very close on the top and sides then shape the toe freehand.

Finally, you hand polish with a backed fine grit paper and lemon oil with a single wrap of masking tape until it's perfect- that is what the gunsmith usually doesn't have time for...