I was looking at one of these down at one of the local gun shops, for $299.00 brand new..

I am looking to accumulate a couple of Savage's in Stainless to be able to do some switch barrel conversions..

However, I have heard that the Ultra Mags are a little different than say the 300 Win Mags..
anyone have any experience with this????

help appreciated!!

cheers
seafire

That's one heck of a price, grab it !!! I have one and dealer cost on it was over $400. Mine has the adjustable muzzle brake on it and a synthetic stock. Mine shoots 1/2", but I haven't really played with it much. I decided it's in the same power class as a .338 Win, and I love my .338 and will never sell it, so this Savage will have to go. I did like it so much though that I bought another Savage. That one is a real shooter, .25 MOA !!! It's in .270 WSM.

Any specific questions on the Savage in .300 RUM in general, PM me. Generally, it's based on the .404 Jeffrey case and is not belted. It burns a lot of powder, usually 85 to 100 grains depending on powder. Recoil is about like a .270 with the Savage adjustable brake.

Teh two rifles on the shelf don't have the accutrigger or the muzzle break...

I was looking more at it, for the action...

Kinda like getting a stainless Stevens...

I have a couple of 338s and a 300 Win Mag, so the caliber is no interest to me.. will probably sell it...

I was thinking of getting a 416 Rem barrel for it tho....

The early WSM's and RUM's had the same barrel shank as a "normal" Savage action. The barrel in front of the barrel nut won't have a "step" in the barrel.

The later, and current production, has a "step" in the barrel shank, as the receiver threads are larger than standard caliber rifles. 1.125" I believe, as compared to 1.055.

If you don't want it, I'm interested.

I have a 300 RUM in the savage 116 w/muzzle brake. shoots 1/2 inch out of the box. not going to sell it cause, it beats all the winchesters.

I had a 116 in the shop a while back in 375 Ultra Mag that totally disintegrated in the guy's hand with a factory round. If you go forward and get the rifle, look closely at the mouth of the chamber. If there is anything other than a very slight, hardly noticable radius at the chambers edge, have someone re-face and square the breech, adjust the length of the chamber and reset the distance between the barrel and the bolt face to absolute minimum before shooting it. I'm fairly certain that the presence of the deep bevel at the mouth of that chamber was a contibuting factor in the destruction of that rifle.

Thanks guys..

Actually, the barrel would be taken off immediately... I don't have the need for an ultra mag...but I liked the stainless action...

It would end up getting a target barrel on it.. kinda like those F class long range shooting set ups...

and of course a new stock.. instead of that cheap synthetic POJ..

Just make sure you know what shank diameter you're getting on the action....

The ultramag is a longer than normal action and it will fit 375 H&H cartridges with no additional work.

If you don't want it and don't mind, let me know where it's at.