I really want a Ruger #1 in 257 Roberts, but of course what comes out of the box doesn't quite fit what I want. I'd like to know if the #1 lends itself to custom work. I'm hoping the #1 route will come in much cheaper than a Lefty Ultra-Light rifle. I though the #1 would be best way to get a Lefty-friendly 257 at a reasonable price.

Can I replace the wood stock with a lighter synthetic stock? And can I replace the blue barrel with a lighter stainless? I'd like to end up with a 7 pound rifle, including scope/rings.

Which one should i start with? The one blue/wood version already chambered to 257, or an S/S version that I have re-chambered to 257? Or can I buy a #1 action and have it barreled and stocked to my specs?

As you can tell, i have no idea what my options are. Please help me out... Thanks.

Gonzo--- (as one that knows Hunter T. I can't imagine anybody liking him. )

The Number One is one of the most customizable actions on the planet......Side plates, inletted safety, Side cocking levers, leaf springs, etc..

I've seen several that the Ruger rep didn't recognize..

......and then you started talking about saving money. Oh well......

You can rebarrel any #1 to 257 Robt. It makes no difference whatever. You *might* have to change the extractor but it's a cheap part.

I don't know anything about tupperware stocks but there's ALWAYS people looking for wood ones, so you'll have no trouble selling it.

J. Belk,

I don't know HST, but I thoroughly enjoy his writing. Maybe for some not knowing him is the only way to like him. I'm sure he's burned a lot of people through the years.

Thanks for the advice. Now that I know the #1 is easy to work with I will move forward with more research. As for the stock, it's a climate and weight thing. I don't want a 257 that's heavier than my 300WinMag and I don't feel like worrying about rust/rot.

Can you predict whether it's cheaper to start with a S/S and rechamber or to start with a 257 and re-stock/barrel it? Seems that I might get some cash back from the stock/barrel on the latter route.

Gonzo, you had me until you said synthetic. LOL. I love number #1's. I bought my .338 as a barreled action from Brazos and then fitted a wood stock to it eons ago. I am restocking it with a piece of English Walnut in the next decade when the work load lightens up.

I suggested a #1 to a guide friend from Riggins Idaho and he ended up with a .257 Roberts. He has taken a few elk with it (yeah it isn't an elk caliber but the ones he shot are still dead). Mark Stratton specializes in #1's and has done a bunch of them. I will email him and have him post a few pics here to get you drooling.

Chic,
I'd like to see pics from under the rifle or over the rifle to see the shape the grip and the forend as they connect with the action. How do you normally treat this? I've see some nice side panels but are there other ways to blend in the metal to wood transition? I can't see this well on many of the profile pics of #1's.

Also, would you know the width of a #1 action and the average width of the forearm?

Hope this makes some sense to you. Thanks,

Chic and Jack,

Would doing up a Ruger 1 as compared to starting with a Hagn (is that the name?) or the Dakota single shot be comparable to starting with a CZ 550 as compared to Granite Arms (is that name?) or the Johansenn.

Mike

Mike375--

That's a fair comparison. By the time you make a Number One a truly fine action the same amount of money is involved as buying a Hagn or Dakota, Miller, or other.....depending on how out of whack the #1 is, of course.

Gonzo:

Email me, I will show you a dandy 257 although it is not a #1. New address:
Jkob60@aol.com

Jim

[ 04-05-2003, 18:54: Message edited by: Jim Kobe ]

Jack

I have engraved 4 or possibly 5 Hagns. They are a real work of art. The problem that I noticed with them (if it is a problem) was they were extractor only. If one wanted an ejector the price went up 3 or 4 hundred quid.

It's been a couple of years since I have worked on one. Ejectors may be standard now. ?????

Roger

There is a .257 on a number one on Gunbroker.com right now, I saw it the other day, it's blue with walnut though. I have been keeping my eye open for a good deal on one too, rather than building a custom up.

If you are looking for a custom that would allow you to shoot lefthanded you could also look at the postings regarding the m1999 left handed action. You could order stainless action and barrel from Montana Rifles and then slap a stock on it and probably not be up there too high $$$$.

Red

From a metal smith's perspective, how big a job is converting a Ruger to side-lever? I've seen photos of the Madole conversions. Have many other people attempted similar conversions?

MPI makes a composite stock set for the #1.

I have a #1 in 22-250, it's the stainless hvy barr/laminated stock model. I just got it back from a trigger job and barrel float and I like it a lot. I'm not much into turning my firearms into works of art with engraving and such tho, takes too much out of my primer, powder, and bullet money.

Stu C--

A side lever Number One should be considered an "advanced" metalworking project. A completely new linkage has to be made on the pivot pin and of course new trigger guard and such, too.

John Madole's work is absolutely stunning. I've seen Ruger factory reps not recognize the actions as Rugers that he's worked on..

Pardon the potentially stupid question to follow, but... In genereal which is a lighter action, a No. 1 or your average bolt action? The No. 1 interests me but I haven't had my hands on many of them.

Thanks,
Bob