I saw a partially sporterized Mod 96 in a pawn shop. Original barrel, safety, and trigger, in a synthetic stock. Bolt is turned down but not like you would for a low scope mount. Bolt and receiver match. Has a base that spans the whole action, and some rather high rings.
Wondering what it takes to put on a commercial low scope safety, make the action cock on opening and put 2-piece scope mount on the thing.
I would rather have an original 96 or 38 and just enjoy it and not be chopping it up. This pawn shop 96 may be worth working with if the alterations I've asked about can be done without breaking the bank...a small bank.

You are lucky you are in western Washington State because the guy that can help you out with this deal is none other than Ed LaPour.

http://www.edlapourgunsmithing.com/

You can save yourself a bunch of dough and end up with a much finer rifle if you start with a Husky Model 46. That's the sporting version with most of the work already done. They can usually be had with scope mounts for $300. Then if you want it to be a little more special, send it to Ed for the cock-on-opening, Mod 70 3-position safety mods.

Why not buy it, replace the onepiece base with a set of two piece yourself. Screwdriver work. Install a Buehler type low scope safety yourself. Not difficult if you follow the instructions. Then you will probably need to have the bolt forged to clear the lower mounted scope (maybe not). I would skip the cock on opening and go enjoy it at that point. Other than the possible bolt changes, there isn't anything difficult about the other mods, or costly for that matter. Even a klutz like myself can manage these changes. I am baseing that upon the supposition that since there is a one piece base on it, the mounting holes are straight and normal spacing.

I'm w/ Thaine. Unless you're trying to buid an heirloom, get it, do what you can to it, shoot it. Cock on closing isn't a bit deal, I've never felt compelled to modify mine, but I did have a side swing two position safety put on.

Sounds Like its just been drilled and tapped only, So rather than buying it , get it home and take it apart and find out the guy butchered and ruined the reciever with a bad Drill and tap job. Take the base off and check that the D/t is done corectly/ straight by a compident smith before you buy it.

Cock on opening is what we are used to in the US but it is not inferior to cock on closing. The Brits cheerfully used the various cock on closing Lee Enfields in their military for about seventy years and our most common military rifle in WWI was the c/o/c 1917 Enfield which far outnumbered Springfield 1903s. I have never read a real analysis of why one is preferable to the other and doubt the choice is important. So don't bother to change your Mauser.

Since I have a 96 that has been sporterized I can give you some costs. New bolt handle $85.00 but you can probably get it done for $50.00, Low profile safety = $35.00. Smith I used builds custom rifles and everything is $85.00 and when he gets to it, since he was doing the bolt and tap for scope he did the safety for less. Timney trigger = cost of trigger and $40.00 installed (different smith). Cock on Open...didn't do since I have 2 1917's that are cock on close...If you just necksize you will notice a very minor difference. Accuracy with original barrel at 24" = cloverleafs at 100 yrds with right load and me doing my part. Love it, heck it outshoots anthing I have in the cabinet and well worth it (my opinion) and for you collectors....sorry, but it is all matching numbers.

And before you go and replace the trigger try the one thats on it now. My original Swede has a great 2 stage trigger. You can easily feel when it gets on the second stage amd from there its as crisp a trigger as you would want.

quote:

Originally posted by vigillinus:
Cock on opening is what we are used to in the US but it is not inferior to cock on closing. The Brits cheerfully used the various cock on closing Lee Enfields in their military for about seventy years and our most common military rifle in WWI was the c/o/c 1917 Enfield which far outnumbered Springfield 1903s. I have never read a real analysis of why one is preferable to the other and doubt the choice is important. So don't bother to change your Mauser.

I suppose it's all in the wrist, LOL. In standing rapid fire, I find that with cock-on-opening, I have some of the time during recovery from recoil to continue cycling the bolt home without great dislocation of the sights as the gun settles down.

With cock-on-closing, I am almost ready to regain the sight picture as the bolt goes home but the extra effort to close it throws me off much farther than otherwise and I have to recover the sight picture a second time.

Besides Vig, the British were broke. Remember?

Grubbydug,

If you're thinking about tinkering with it, go to the pawnshop and get it. You can figure the rest out later. Things like adding a trigger or bedding the stock aren't that hard. And if you want to put two piece bases on, all you'll need are four properly drilled holes and a screwdriver. Other than something like getting a fourth scope mount hole drilled or the bolt alter, most of the mods you're asking about are plug and play if you read the directions.

You cannot do any of this if someone buys it out from under you though. Go bring it home and then start thinking about how to modify it...

Thanks guys, a lot of good tips and suggestions there.

A closer exam of the pawnshop mod 96 shows some extra holes in the receiver and it looks a little boogered up. Looks like the best thing that will come of all this is the information you have shared. Thanks again. Doug

Dril bit + bubba + reciever = scap metal

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Alf,

Where the heck did you find room in amongst all those really nice rifles for this one? This one just doesn't...seem...much like...something Alf would own.

Impulse buy?

I built a custom swede out of parts from numrich, those new swedish mil surplus m38 barrels are extremly accurate. Probably beter barrels than alot of aftermarket

.

tig I prefer cock on opening myself but I understand that in a rapid fire match in Germany in late 1945 the Brits with No. 4s beat our guys with Garands ....... or so goes the story the Brits tell. If you saw A Bridge Too Far there is a shot of one actor playing a Brit flipping that bolt with amazing rapidity as the Germans come across the bridge. And in WWI in the opening stages the Germans advancing in Belgium thought all the Brits were armed with machine guns .... they had hardly any. The Germans with long 98s and straight bolts had no chance. But those Brits were the long service professionals who had trained to the inch in musketry with the SMLE and most of them were dead by 1916.

I originally wanted to have a full custom built off of a 96 type action. Mostly I was looking at a commercial 640 Improved or Husky 46 action, but everyone told me I was on the wrong path and needed to go 98.....I will use the 6.5 Swede in original loading not hot. What should I do guys. I love the 96!

Heres my sporter swede when under construction, New '43 husky reciever, new carl gustaf surplus 6.5x55 barrel, talley bolt handle, bolt and other parts rescued from a butcherd m38

quote:

Originally posted by GSP7:
Heres my sporter swede when under construction, New '43 husky reciever, new carl gustaf surplus 6.5x55 barrel, talley bolt handle, bolt and other parts rescued from a butcherd m38

Where did you get your stock from? I have had a heck of a time finding a decent looking pattern for the 96.

Bill, Thats actually a G.A.G. Gary Gouty. I filed quiet abit of wood off the grip and forend to make it slimer. It was inleted very good also. Black walnut

Heres some of the color/figure

So I was right! These little M/96 actions do make nice custom guns. There used to be a scope advertisement, I think Burris, that had a gal on there with a custom Swede 96 rifle. Do you all remember that?

I am rethinking my whole plan now! Maybe I will use a Husqvarna Model 46 action for my custom build?

On my Swede 96 project, (Husky 640 sporter)
I sent the bolt off and had a new one re-welded on it $55 including shipping (Bobsgunshop.com), ordered a Dayton Traister speed lock kit which comes with an adjustable trigger, cock on open, and speeds up the lock time and new cocking peice, I also ordered a low safety at the same time all for $95 including shipping. I will have a little gunsmith expense for the speed lock install, safety is easily installed by me. After I get it back from the "smith" I'll just drop it back in the old stock and shoot it for awhile as is until I get the right stock to come along and just peice it together a little at a time and keep shooting it as it comes together.
I sold some stuff that came with it when I bought the gun. Like a fixed 6x Leupold and the high rings and a lace on cheek peice that all offset the cost of the rifle to $116.00! I bought some nice lightweight rings at a store going out of business $5.50, got a deal on a used but new variable scope $106.00 and all that plus the cost of the gun and I've got a nice shooting 6.5x55 scoped and hunting for under $400!
I am loving this project!

I AM LOVING THIS FORUM AND THIS TOPIC IN PARTICULAR.

How else could a greenhorn like myself tap into the experience of people scattered all over the globe?

I offer my most serious thanks for all your suggestions and very nice photos. All of this brings to mind another question. Do you suppose those fine craftsmen of 100 years ago turning out these Swedish Mausers had any inkling as to the impact of their work generations later? Maybe some of them knew that a task given to skilled craftsmen dedicated to detail will inevitably be noticed and appreciated forever.

Your posts have inspired me. Best regards to all, Doug

ANy comment on using the 96 for a custom?

How could you go wrong? The Swede 96 action is a stout action in any of it's incarnations and was designed with the 6.5X55 in mind. A 98 action may be a great idea if one is pushing things and a better gas venting is needed! Kimber and others have used the 96's for use with higher pressure rounds than the 6.5 such as the 308 and 22-250. Best-o-Luck