I have several stocks that I will need to refinish and celan and recut the checkering. A couple of them a couple lines that need to be repaired. Is it a Jointer that I'm thinking about or something else to help me straighten lines?

When I refinish a stock and recut the checkering I will use a finish stripper on the checkering to remove any finish first. A plain carbon steel cutter V is all that you need. A carbide cutting will last much longer because of the imbedded sand in the chechering. The longer J & R carbide will last forever if you read my post above on checkering cutters. I like the 9/16 in. 90 degree carbide tool. Don't try to straighten the lines too much, but follow the old lines. Don't use a spacer tool. I don't like the Joiner as it is too long.

quote:

Don't try to straighten the lines too much, but follow the old lines

Thanks Les. I have a couple places where the crossed the lines at the factory. Thought maybe a Jointer might help to uncross. Thne again maybe it is my old eyes that are crossed.

Les,

Do you use the "push" or "pull" cutters for recutting? Is there difference in push/pull for new checkering?

Thanks,

Most of my checkering is push style cutting. About the only pull cutting I do is with a short cutting head. These are used from the border inward for a short distance and then I go back to the push cutting. By pushing forward I can see where to cut ahead of the cutter. Old lines are sometime only a grease line to follow. I will use a veiner 90 degree chisel to cut up close to the edge. Stop and look at the crossed lines to see if you can get them correct. It is not easy to hide these problems unless you remove the area and recut the pattern. To pick up a line and space new checkering takes some planning. Use a spacer guage from Brownells to make the line match.

Hope this helps

Les

Thanks Les. I have always used a "push" cutter but figured I must have missed something.

I do almost all my hand checkering with a Full-view cutter set up to pull. I think it is a Dembart C-1 you can use and a Full-view handle.

As for "correcting" factory checkering, I don't recommend it unless you're going to sand it all off and start from scratch (pun intended). I clean up a lot of old checkering and I've yet to re-cut a job that was perfect; there are always "issues", and if you try to fix them you'll most likely end up with a bigger issue.

quote:

and if you try to fix them you'll most likely end up with a bigger issue.

Probably good advice. Do need to give a Full-view handle a try seems I'm always in my own light. Since I have about 5 or 6 that I will need to try and salvage from the water damage I'll get plenty of practice this winter.