Hi all, I tweaked my M98 action while takeing a barrel off before I built a barrel vise and action wrench. The rear of the action is twisted just slightly. I've read this is mucho bad for accuracy.
Is there a proper way to go about un-twisting it?
thoughts?

I'm not sure but I believe you now have a Model 98 paper weight. You might be able to straighten it then line bore it but the cost would be alot and you might have to broach cut the action again to clean it up. But--- Ask Jeffe should have been my responce!!

quote:

Originally posted by Lar45:
Hi all, I tweaked my M98 action while takeing a barrel off before I built a barrel vise and action wrench. The rear of the action is twisted just slightly. I've read this is mucho bad for accuracy.
Is there a proper way to go about un-twisting it?
thoughts?

You might try putting it back together and twisting it the other way. What do you mean you twisted the back of the action? What did you use to remove it?

quote:

Originally posted by malm:
What did you use to remove it?

This should be interesting....

Well unless it was a collector action I think I would chalk it up to a learning experience and hang it on the wall as a reminder.

If you want to try. I would mount the front of the action in the action wrench then take a piece of bar stock that will just fit in the groves and then try and twist it back.

It had a worn out 7x57 barrel that I never could get to shoot, and I picked up a 45 acp conversion kit to put on.
I has a one piece scope base so I thought that maybe I could put the action in a vise with two thin boards on the flats and then use a pipe wrench on the barrel. I didn't plan on keeping the barrel.
I started leaning on the pipe wrench and it wouldn't budge, so I put a cheater on the pipe wrench and tried again. That's when I noticed the action was twisting in the wood blocks. OOPS!
So then I made a trip to the steel shop and got a couple of big blocks and put a small spacer inbetween, then drilled for the size of the barrel shank and put some 1/2" holes to bolt them down. I also got a 16" long piece of 3/4 x 1 1/2" to make an action wrench that I can put a pipe cheater on.
I drilled and tapped the flat anvil looking surface on the back of my bench vise to mount the barrel blocks to. The barrel wouldn't budge and it started tearing the vise off the bench. So I mounted the barrel blocks on the end of my lathe and then had to use a 4' cheater to get the barrel broke loose.
I've since done a couple of other barrels that came off without much trouble.

The action isn't anything wonderful, just a Brno from a surplus rifle, and it was already drilled and tapped.
I'm starting on a new 8mm project and was thinking of useing the action, but I don't want it giving me accuracy problems before I even see how it will shoot.
Is there any regular accuracy problems that might show up with a twisted action. Something that if you saw the target you might think, twisted action?
thanks
Glenn.

quote:

Originally posted by Cold Bore:

quote:

Originally posted by malm:
What did you use to remove it?

This should be interesting....

Ive pulled a few mauser barrels in my time. Never bent an action though. If it were me....I think I would scrap it and call it "lessons learned".

quote:

Originally posted by Lar45:
Is there any regular accuracy problems that might show up with a twisted action. Something that if you saw the target you might think, twisted action?
thanks
Glenn.

Bullet holes in a spiral pattern?

quote:

Originally posted by Lar45:
I started leaning on the pipe wrench and it wouldn't budge, so I put a cheater on the pipe wrench and tried again.


The barrel wouldn't budge and it started tearing the vise off the bench.


I've since done a couple of other barrels that came off without much trouble.

Glenn-

Some are definitely tougher than others.

Next time, put the barrelled action in a padded vise, muzzle down. Remove the bolt and squirt some Kroil into the front of the action, so that it can "creep" into the threads between the action and barrel. I usually do it the night before and just let it soak.

The barrel "usually" pops loose much easier.

quote:

Originally posted by Lar45:
I've since done a couple of other barrels that came off without much trouble.

Seeing as how you said "since", we can also assume that you used your new barrel vise and action wrench, which helps considerably over the "other way".

I have a wall hanger also. i took two mausers to a gun shop to get the barrels removed since i didnt have a barrel vise and action wrench. my numbers matching 1912 steyr ended up twisted so bad the bolt wouldnt go in. i took it back in the shop ( i noticed the twist when i got in my pickup and tried to put the bolt back in ). this "gunsmith" used a T handle action wrench, and when he "fixed" it, he stuck a cresent wrench handle through the action (feed rails) and twisted it in the opposite direction. it's almost straight, and the bolt is smoother now than before, but in reality, it's probably a wall hanger. i might try to shoot it, it's not drilled or tapped yet, so if it's done now, it shoulod be in line... but i got a VZ-24 to replace it, figuring it's toast.

Yes, it works much better than the big crescent wrench.
The bolt still moves smoothly in the action.
I think I may find a piece of flat bar to fit the back of the action and see if I can tweak it back some.
thanks.

Lar45, That thing is garbage. You will never bend it back to exactly how it was.

You already know that though. I would heat it red hot with a torch and twist it one or two more turns , then weld it onto the sissy bar or shift lever on your Harley

Lar45, you might think about heating it up real good with a torch then squaring it up. Then polish it up a bit and sell it in the AR classified forum.

quote:

Originally posted by ForrestB:
Lar45, you might think about heating it up real good with a torch then squaring it up. Then polish it up a bit and sell it in the AR classified forum.

ForrestB, you are evil...

John