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Maybe feeding issue with HS precion clip?
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I just recieved my build back from the smith, 7mm Dakota on a predator stiller action, Hs precison DBM and clip, jewell trigger and a rock barrel #4 countour at 24.5" with a painkiller muzzle brake on it. Here is my question when I load the detachable mag with EMPTY 7mm Dakota brass it will not feed the Empty one at all! Also there are some washers put in between the botom metal and the stock pillars??? My gunsmith told me that thats they way its supposed to be, I am not sure about that one sounds fishy???? And when I put a dummy round in it it seems to feed it ok, but the bullets seems to touch the ramp alot! Is this normal for this type of Detachable magazine??? And will the runout of my bullets be affected when they touch the ramp to get fed into the chamber?
Thanks
Elmer
 
Posts: 101 | Registered: 10 January 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by elmerdeer:
Here is my question when I load the detachable mag with EMPTY 7mm Dakota brass it will not feed the Empty one at all! Also there are some washers put in between the botom metal and the stock pillars??? My gunsmith told me that thats they way its supposed to be, I am not sure about that one sounds fishy???? And when I put a dummy round in it it seems to feed it ok, but the bullets seems to touch the ramp alot! Is this normal for this type of Detachable magazine??? And will the runout of my bullets be affected when they touch the ramp to get fed into the chamber?
Thanks
Elmer


I doubt empties will ever feed reliably. Big Grin Stick to rounds with bullets in them. Really, the bullets help guide the cartridge up the ramp and into the chamber.

On a properly pillar bedded action, the pillars themselves should be in contact with the bottom metal and the receiver, not washers. Too me, the presence of the washers would indicate that the pillars were not correctly measured and fit.

As far as the bullets touching the ramp "a lot", as long as the bullet noses aren't damaged and the rounds feed up without any problem, you should be fine. However, if there is damage to the noses, then it might require a slight feed lip adjustment, or you might need to seat the bullet a bit deeper. How much clearance is there between the loaded rounds and the box?


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Westpac here are the answers to your questions;
On a properly pillar bedded action, the pillars themselves should be in contact with the bottom metal and the receiver, not washers. Too me, the presence of the washers would indicate that the pillars were not correctly measured and fit.
!)With the washers off my trigger fires when I close the bolt with 2 thin washers just under the triger gaurd I can slam the bolt closed as hard as i can and the trigger will not go off!!!
As far as the bullets touching the ramp "a lot", as long as the bullet noses aren't damaged and the rounds feed up without any problem, you should be fine. However, if there is damage to the noses, then it might require a slight feed lip adjustment, or you might need to seat the bullet a bit deeper. How much clearance is there between the loaded rounds and the box?
2)I load them to about .080" away from the end of the box.
Thank you
elmer
 
Posts: 101 | Registered: 10 January 2006Reply With Quote
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If the stock came with pillars pre-installed for a Remington BLD or DM, the aftermarket bottom could need shims to work correctly in that mortise. Just a thought.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11142 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by elmerdeer:
!)With the washers off my trigger fires when I close the bolt with 2 thin washers just under the triger gaurd I can slam the bolt closed as hard as i can and the trigger will not go off!!!


That is dangerous! Find someone who is competent to remove the pillars and start from scratch! NO WAY should that gun fire with the washers removed!


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Westpac:
quote:
Originally posted by elmerdeer:
!)With the washers off my trigger fires when I close the bolt with 2 thin washers just under the triger gaurd I can slam the bolt closed as hard as i can and the trigger will not go off!!!


That is dangerous! Find someone who is competent to remove the pillars and start from scratch! NO WAY should that gun fire with the washers removed!

I fixed the problem, the trigger needed adjustment!
Thanks
Elmer
 
Posts: 101 | Registered: 10 January 2006Reply With Quote
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The only way removing washers from the "bottom" side of a pillar will cause a trigger to trip when closing the bolt is if the pillar is floating, causing the action to be pulled out of alignment. Is the pillar loose in the stock?

I would recommend seriously that you get someone experienced in bedding and trigger issues to examine that rifle and make it right.


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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I concur to find a 'smith that will pillar bed the H&S DBM correctly into the stock with out the supplied washers.


Keep'em in the X ring,
DAN

www.accu-tig.com
 
Posts: 429 | Location: Fairbanks,AK. | Registered: 30 October 2008Reply With Quote
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