I have seen a lot of reheat treating questions on here. I did a search and cannot find how hard you need to get it. I have a WWI Gew98 action I would like to build a 300 Magnum on. What do I need to ask for?

Wes,

I sent mine to Pacific Metallurgical in Kent, Wa. They heat treat actions by the "Tom Burgess Method". He posts here as System 98. The certification that I got back with the action specified 33-36 HRC for the receiver, and 45-48 HRC for the bolt. Finished #'s on mine were receiver 36, bolt 47.

Craig,
Do you have their contact info? What was the cost?

PACMET The guy I talked to over there was very helpful. I can't remember the price he quoted, but it amazed me how cheap it was. It's done by the lot (40 actions) and not by the action, so if you can get a couple of people together the cost would be next to nothing to have this done.

Terry

Blanchard Metal Processing is another source. They are in Salt Lake City, Utah.

Wes,

http://www.pacment.com
253-854-4241

Receiver and bolt was $85.

Man that was fast. By the way the Whelen should be done next week! just in time for my hog hunt in late Oct.

quote:

Originally posted by Glen71:
Blanchard Metal Processing is another source. They are in Salt Lake City, Utah.

an excellent source.

If you take your action to a company that does case hardening and ask them to check it they may tell you that it already is up to spec. But it MUST be someone that has equipment to check on the 15, 30, or 45 N scale. It cannot be checked with a Rc scale machine.

my preference is that it measure 35-40 Rc but must be converted from the 30-N scale

If you send to Blanchard they already know what spec to harden to....they do a bunch of them..

Further, I'd not harden the bolt....be your own judge.

Wes,

Post or send me a picture when it's done, I'd like to see it. I sorta miss it, but it's nice to know it's in good hands.

Craig

It's best to make certain that you're understood un some matters.

I have read that a person needs to do all metal work before reheat treating. Does that include drill and tap?

I spose it could be done after the fact, but as far as I know, drill/tap is usually done before the heat treat, just like the rest of the metal work

I agree that drilling and tapping should be done before heat treating.

Bear in mind that the hardness is not so high that the metal cannot be filed or drilled and tapped later. High speed steel will still cut it nicely. However it's best to do so before hand.

Lap the bolt to the action afterwards and thread the barrel and chamber the barrel after heat treating as well. Squaring the action should also be done after heat treating.

PM sent

Vapodog, I would carefully check the lugs first to see if one of the lugs is not contacting the receiver.If so lap first .Otherwise you'll end up removing the case hardening .Lapping should really only polish not remove much metal.

quote:

Originally posted by mete:
Vapodog, I would carefully check the lugs first to see if one of the lugs is not contacting the receiver.If so lap first .Otherwise you'll end up removing the case hardening .Lapping should really only polish not remove much metal.

I respectfully disagree. Yes, lapping will only remove a very small amount but case hardening will be close to .030 deep or more and there will be some minor distortion of the metal and lapping will need to be done post heat treat or it will be of no avail otherwise.

If anyone laps away the case hardening they have destroyed the action. The bolt will be resting on the safety lug and not engaging the foreward ring.

Lapping of the bolt to the receiver is to mate only a couple thou at the most.