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case coloring protection
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What do you put on case coloring to preserve it? A wax perhaps?
 
Posts: 268 | Registered: 02 December 2005Reply With Quote
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I use satin auto lacquer, then wax after it fully cures.
 
Posts: 3838 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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A varnish of some sort in the past ... but nowadays, clear cerakote. Wax won't do much. The problem is the colors wear really fast (the hardness endures). So you need to put something that resists oil and handling on top.


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Posts: 2934 | Location: Texas | Registered: 07 June 2003Reply With Quote
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It also fades fast when exposed to sunlight; the colors are only a millionth of an inch thick.
 
Posts: 17398 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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That's another good reason to use an auto lacquer. They have UV inhibitors. If the finish wears you can strip with lacquer thinner and re-coat.

quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
It also fades fast when exposed to sunlight; the colors are only a millionth of an inch thick.
 
Posts: 3838 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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That's another good reason to use an auto lacquer. They have UV inhibitors. If the finish wears you can strip with lacquer thinner and re-coat.

Great idea on UV protection Bobster. I took a class with the late John Hackley a number of years ago and he taught us back then that sunlight would fade color case hardening colors quickly. Back then Hackley had us use TruOil for a sealer. Sprayed it on with an air brush.


Craftsman
 
Posts: 1551 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Yes, Tru-Oil will work but it is too glossy for me. I guess you could work it with an abrasive to lower the sheen. But that is extra work.

quote:
Originally posted by Craftsman:
quote:
That's another good reason to use an auto lacquer. They have UV inhibitors. If the finish wears you can strip with lacquer thinner and re-coat.

Great idea on UV protection Bobster. I took a class with the late John Hackley a number of years ago and he taught us back then that sunlight would fade color case hardening colors quickly. Back then Hackley had us use TruOil for a sealer. Sprayed it on with an air brush.
 
Posts: 3838 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Or keep it out of the sunlight. I have parts for the 1863 Springfield that still has perfect case colors.
 
Posts: 17398 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the input.
 
Posts: 268 | Registered: 02 December 2005Reply With Quote
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I was told once upon a time linseed oil was used as a protective finish.

I can't speak to the veracity of this statement.


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Posts: 1521 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
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Tru Oil, being yellow, gives a warm hue to case colors. Oscar Gaddy use to recommend Behlens Acrylic spray which was clear. Much cooler color profile.
 
Posts: 1694 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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That is correct according to what I have read. Back in-the-day owners of fine guns had them regularly maintained and that included an annual refresh of BLO on the wood and metal.

quote:
Originally posted by Fal Grunt:
I was told once upon a time linseed oil was used as a protective finish.

I can't speak to the veracity of this statement.
 
Posts: 3838 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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