Hi guys
Ive been asking around about this action and iam not finding out much What iam wanting to find out is if this is a cut out for a specal scope mount ?? thought maybe some one here may know..

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=277932&c=500&z=1"] [/url]

That cut out was done on Winchesters & Eddystones to supposedly lighten the rifle. Thank god it was not done on Remingtons!

Hi Doug
so is it for a removeable rear sight or what. iam wanting to mount a scope on this rifle guess i can fill the cut out and then drill &tap the holes. RayA

Ray A,

Before the ears were ground off your action the factory rear sight covered that hole. Filling that up is a common practice when grinding off the ears and doesn’t hurt anything at all.

quote:

Originally posted by RayA:
Hi Doug
so is it for a removeable rear sight or what. iam wanting to mount a scope on this rifle guess i can fill the cut out and then drill &tap the holes. RayA

Ray A,

When this alteration (grinding off the ears) is done to those rifles it is sometimes difficult to get two piece bases that have the proper front to rear height ratio.

If you’re going to drill and tap that area you really only have two choices: 1) fill the hole with welding material...2) expoxy in a small piece of steel. In either case you are going to have to machine and/or grind the finished area to assure that it is level and concentric in relationship to the front ring.

This is all doable...but obviously it is work best performed by a skilled machinist with an understanding of firearms and scope mounting..ie, a really good gunsmith.

I have read tht it was done before heat treating to reduce warping??.
Good luck!

Hi Again Guys thanks for all the replys ive had this ole rifle forever.Was hopeing there was for a mount but Ill have to see who's set up to do these in my area. Thanks again. RayA

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
I have read tht it was done before heat treating to reduce warping??.
Good luck!

I own two 1917 Enfields and it appears to me that this cut out is just something to give some room for the rear sight spring to sit and operate out of.

Hawkins is correct. The ovoid ( "duck pond") cut was an extra operation. The heat treat was a mechanised operation, involving heated neutral Molten salts to reach proper hardening temperature. The bridge and ring ends of the receiver were done separately. There is far more mass on the top of the p-14 & Mod. 1917 bridge than there is in the cross section of the underside. Then you have the sight protection "wings" or "Ears" at the top of the bridge. The quenching operation was in quenching oil at a temperature near 125 degrees F. The greater mass at the top was slower to cool to transformation temperature range. This means that since metal expands when it is hot at a reasonably straight line increase per degree, the bottom of the receiver including the entire rear tang became shorter sooner than the top. As hardened it stayed that way. This often puckered the bolt bore through the bridge making for a miss aligned bolt bore. The rear tang screw was designed to be on an angle, but leaning forward even moreso at the screw head in this warped condition. This complicated assembly of the trigger guard strap to the receiver. A solution for this was to put the receiver in a straightening press to get the bolt bore through the bridge aimed at the bolt bore through the receiver ring. The mid section was not hardened so this could be done although time consuming. There was another problem. The sight leaf was centered between two bosses on the inside faces of the sight protector wings. Heat treat distortion at this point was not as easy to correct for centering with the bolt bore. The leaf was not correctable at all. Early in the days of the P 14 for the British it was found that milling that ovoid solved most of the problems in heat treat distortion caused by un-equal mass of metal. Remington solved the problem in the waning days of the P 14 contract. They used a 2 part quench. The first quench bath was at a temperature of around 400 degrees F. This is about 200 degrees above " transformation" where the steel actually hardens. The time in this first quench bath was adjusted to where the receiver assumed the bath temperature, and this was followed by a second quench at the usual 125 Degrees. It required some time for Rem. to get permission from the Ordnance authorities in 1917 to leave off this cut in the bridge, so ,indeed, there are several 10's of thousands of receivers that have this cut by Remington. I have found them mostly under 150,000 serial number. They also show up, neatly disguised in the model 30 commercial Rem rifles. Visible just as the receiver starts to color in the immersion blue bath. Sometimes visible afterwards, too . A lot of explaining to owner who is certain that it did not look this way before bluing and may want to fight about the subj ect.

systeme98,

thanks for the informative read !!

Here is what I use hole for on mine-Nice
rugged aperture sight-Ed.

Ed could you take a close up of your sight for us?

Doug-- It is little steel block with
aperture through it, set in the hole
with JBWeld. Filed off smooth when set.
Also has holes in sides, lets in light,
as it seems to work for my eyes best that way.
Block is a little narrower than
hole so we could adjust for windage,Got it on second try for height and windage.
Had to shorten for height. Dead on at 200yds
with a 350 gr at 3100 and a 400 gr at 2900.
Medium loads.

I know that a base could also be fitted and soldered in with an adjustable aperture sight mounted on it.I can't use open V
sights worth a hoot. Have to use aperture or scope.Ed.

That ought to be as indestructable a sight as there is.

PS: Unless a Marine gets hold of it!

Yes and best part is it is simple.That block is
from the end of a 1/2 inch breaker bar that I broke the handle. Have a bunch more in the
toolboxs.Knocked balls out and run holes through
both sides.And ground it for height.1st time
in it was a little high,ground a little off
and second time come out right.
Amazed even me when I put 3 bullets
in a 6 in circle at 200 yds once, with my fuzzy vision, in a serious recoil gun.It is hard to beat them old Enfields for hairy wildcating
with economical cost...Ed.

By D Humbarger,

quote:

Unless a Marine gets a hold of it.

I resemble that remark.

Semper Fi !!!

One has to wonder about a guy that has a tool box full of broken breaker bars.
Good luck!

Hawkins- I didn't break them all.HaHah.
Another reason I save them is the handles of different sizes make great expander rods for
my wildcat case work. Back to the Enfield,
due to grinding the back bridge real short so
port is long for my cases, putting that sight
in the cutout hole seemed the best way to
set it up.Ed.

Hi Ed
what calibers your gun there?? RayA

Ray-That is my 458HE wildcat.Case 3.45
inches long.It puts the zip into into a
458 bullet..Ed.