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slicking up an action?
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one of us
posted
Any ideas on slicking up an action? The new CZ is pretty sticky. A friend in NC used Flitz and oil and worked the action for a while. I was thinking of using JB Bore paste. Would that be too abrasive? Other ideas? Thanks "D"
 
Posts: 1701 | Location: Western NC | Registered: 28 June 2000Reply With Quote
<Don G>
posted
Anything you do will likely remove the internal finish. Be sure to use some non-embedding grit.

JB would not be too abrasive, it might take a long time because it is not aggressive.

Don

[This message has been edited by Don G (edited 04-30-2001).]

 
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<AK-HUNTER>
posted
D-HUNTER-- ARE YOU INTERESTED IN THE 1.75 X 6
THANKS MORGAN SON OF - AK
 
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If the stickiness is caused by roughness you are usually better off to polish the offending surfaces. Often the actions are sticky simply because the bolt and receiver are the same material and of about the same hardness so have an affinity for one another. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3857 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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AK I might be interested. My e-mail is screwy at this point. Just changed servers and all. You got one? I am shopping. "D"
 
Posts: 1701 | Location: Western NC | Registered: 28 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Strip the action completely. Carve a stick to fit the bolt raceway. It will be a slab shaped thing with rounded corners. Split it with a saw on the vertical plane. Glue sand paper to it with spray adhesive. Start at 220 wet dry and finish with 600. Use it wet and expand you stick with a wedge as the paper wears. It will be wonderfilly smooth when you are done. Also get the inside of the rails with a dremmel and cratex wheels. The only place I might slather the grinding compound is on the cocking cams and then only JB. Go over all parts and remove obvious burrs with the 600 grit paper backed by a flat surface. Rinse it carefully with solvent then re-oil. A parts washer is a big help. Any grit will feel horrible.

[This message has been edited by scot (edited 05-01-2001).]

[This message has been edited by scot (edited 07-02-2001).]

 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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I use 12" sections of 1/4" welding rod with a 1/2" piece of whet rock stone glued to it and shaped on a grinder to the need shapes to polish the rails of any bolt gun and I polsh the bolt with stones, in fact I stone the whole action after surface grinding....I start with 220 stone and go to 400 and in places 600...I suppose you could use a piece of square wood dowling with emory paper to polish the rails..whatever you use should be the same shape needed to polish the surface such as flat, concave or whatever.

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

 
Posts: 42320 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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When I got my M70 .375 I pulled it out of the box, cleaned it and put a couple of drops of oil on the lugs then sat on the couch in front of the TV and cycled it 1500 times. It took me the better part of 3 or 4 hours and I could barely move my arm the next day but it is slick as owl s**t now. Real cheap and low tech but it worked.
 
Posts: 1173 | Registered: 14 June 2000Reply With Quote
<migra>
posted
I do quite a bit of work on Mauser actions. I've found that if I take a little valve lapping compound and put it on the bolt and under the extractor collar and work the action one or two hundred times, that the action runs a lot smoother. I usually do this before or after lapping the lugs. Needless to say it requires cleanup afterwards but since I'm bluing the action anyway it's no big deal.
 
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<KilgoreT>
posted
Thank God, another one. All these years I was afraid that I might be the only one anal enough to cycle NIB bolts like that. My SAKOs are nearly quiet they're so slick, using telflon oils.
What is a non-surgical remedy for carpal tunnel syndrome? 8^)
quote:
Originally posted by boltman:
When I got my M70 .375 I pulled it out of the box, cleaned it and put a couple of drops of oil on the lugs then sat on the couch in front of the TV and cycled it 1500 times. It took me the better part of 3 or 4 hours and I could barely move my arm the next day but it is slick as owl s**t now. Real cheap and low tech but it worked.

 
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quote:
Originally posted by migra:
I do quite a bit of work on Mauser actions. I've found that if I take a little valve lapping compound and put it on the bolt and under the extractor collar and work the action one or two hundred times, that the action runs a lot smoother.

I must admit that I had thought that an old ex military Mauser had had enough slicking with oil and dirt to make one want to put metal back on, not take any more off.

 
Posts: 2258 | Location: Bristol, England | Registered: 24 April 2001Reply With Quote
<migra>
posted
That oil and dirt doesn't slick things up. Actually it has quite the opposite effect. Also this process doesn't remove much metal, it just smooths out rough edges.
 
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I honestly can't see how one type of grit can rough things up and another can slick things up but I agree weird things can happen. My own 09s have the typical sloppy mauser bolt and are as fast as they can get given the limits of the design, they'll never be on the same (speed) level as an Enfield.
 
Posts: 2258 | Location: Bristol, England | Registered: 24 April 2001Reply With Quote
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