I would like to learn how to glass bed a rifle I have. I would be using AcraGalss to do so and I have watched several of the youtube videos on line but I still have some questions. Like…When glass bedding a rifle, how do you guys keep the bedding compound from getting into the bolt holes were the screws go in and out of the pin housing for the trigger? Do you screw them back in. I am in Colorado Springs, any of you on Accuratereloading located in the Springs and willing to teach/show how to glass bed. Also, due you guys have any good tips that help you guys out.

Send your email to ramrod340@hotmail.com and I'll send you a copy of Jake Belks bedding paper. Just to long to post here.

Simple answer I use clay or tape to keep the epoxy out of places it isn't wanted. I use guide pins to align the action and rubber hose wrapped around the stcok and action to apply pressure.

Take a look at this thread:

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/...php/topics/3003214/1

If you buy an Accra Glass or Gel kit , it will have complete instructions with it . Read them several times before you start , anyone of average intellegence can bed a rifle !

Be very careful. It is easy to do but also very easy to ruin a good rifle that will never come apart again. Hopefully you can find someone near you that can guide you along the way. Glass bedding is essential to help accuracy. Use the Acra Glass Gel since it is similar to peanut butter when mixed. The other one they make is too liquid for me and is hard to control.

quote:

Use the Acra Glass Gel since it is similar to peanut butter when mixed

I just did my 4 th bedding job a couple of weeks ago.

I use the technique from this link: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx...emington-700-Part-II

I would recommend silly putty instead of clay for plugging up holes as it is a lot easier to clean up.

quote:

Originally posted by jtinidaho:
I would recommend silly putty instead of clay for plugging up holes as it is a lot easier to clean up.

Great tip! I will definitely try this next time... Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by craigster:
Take a look at this thread:

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/...php/topics/3003214/1

craigster, Thanks for flagging up that excellent thread, very interesting and great pics. The guy made it look easy(ish).jc

It all depends on what action you are doing. The first one I did was a Winchester Mod 70 and I was able to do it easily. I even pillar bedded it. I also did a Sako AV. I once screwed up a Win Mod 70 by not using the mould release correctly.

The most difficult actions are the old, old ones like the Mannlicher Schoenauer which as manyu fiddly bits and curvves and crevices. I solved it by using modeling clay and doing in bits. Takes time & patience but comes out really well.

If you a methodical and systematic knd of person in normal day to day life, you should have no problems. If you tend to be a bit more creative and random then you ned to be extra careful.
Good luck.

Forty years ago in gunsmithing school my personal projects included a M98 and a MKI Springfield .Both were bedded with Acra-glas ,full bedded receiver, no pillar, + 2" of barrel bedded.Everything still rock solid !!

Use guide screws only...Using the rifles screws is the best way to set up a bind in the inletting...I use guide screws well waxed, you can plug holes with modeling clay or Johnsons Wax. let the gun settle a bit then you can, if you must, use rubber tubing and wrap the rear action ring snuggly and you can even hang a couple of pounds on the barrel..Everything must come to rest at centerline. Its easy but the more you glass bed the better you become at it..Always take your time and have everything prepared and it order before you start..I learned the hard way many years ago, but I suggest if at all possible to learn from someone that does this all the time..Beware of the expert who has only glassed a few.

I am trying to remember all the different brands of epoxy bedding material I have tried over the years, some steel filled, some aluminum filled, JB weld ect. at least a dozen types. The last one I used was a Miles Gilbert kit, you get a lot of extra stuff but it's the nicest, smoothest filling bedding I've tried.

Thanks guys, as usual you guys and this site is loaded with a wealth of experience and a willingness to help. I was thinking of using Johnsons wax to plug the holes. I thought it would be easy to remove it if I heated it up with a heat gun in the cleanup process.

Don't heat it up, no need to do that..use a q-tip to get the Johnson wax out..I only use Johnsons wax for a release agent, been using the same can for years~!!

I like Marine Tex from Brownells, I like regular old Brownells glass and the gel it OK also..

Most of the bedding compounds work just fine. but for the newby I suggest Brownells as the 1x1 mixing is easier..

There are tricks to getting good accuracy such as I use trimmed tape on the front, sides and bottom of the mod. 70s recoil lug with only contact on the rear portion..On a Mauser I glass the action tight. On the real big bores I glass the whole gun form tang to the end of the forend tight. On some lighter guns I shoot them in different ways until I know what they need then I glass them accordingly..

Some guns shoot best with 3 point bedding, some like to be free floated, some tight and you need to know that before you glass bed it.

i'm also a novice with bedding, but enjoyed doing it and learning.
i have a .338 RUM on the way, rem700 bdl. i may bed that rifle as well.

Is there an advantage to bedding the entire action vs just the recoil lug area and the tang area as in this link posted above?

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/...php/topics/3003214/1

thank you

Ruger actions like the one used in the other forum write up are a little harder to do because of the front guard screw angle. I made a hinged inletting screw to go into the hole to keep as much of the glass out of the action threads. I like to keep the action inletting screw in place as the glass sets up to keep the trigger guard inline with the action.

Here is a little history on glass bedding. I went to work for an old shop in 1964. The stockmaker was a very good craftsman and started making stocks in the 1930's. Being the new kid on the block I had to do the glass bedding jobs. Their bedding compound was the DENTAL POWDER AND ACTIVATOR used to make false teeth which was a pink color. It would set up quick and hard, but was too britle. Heavy recoil rifles would break the bedding over time, so I got to dig out the old compound and use Brownells acra glas to repair.

Make yourself a tool to pull the actions out of the stock. This is a bridge over the stock top wood line to clear the action for space. Insert a rod inside the action with a 1/4 X 20 taped in the middle. It works like a stuck case remover to pull the action from the stock.