I am just a hobbyist. I have used stock finishes that contain polyurethane, such as Minwax tung oil and Tru-Oil, to refinish the stocks on several of my rifles.

It seems to me that the weatherproofing offered by these poly-type finishes is a good thing.

But I have found that the stock tends to develop a very high gloss after rubbing just a few thin applications of such a finish into the wood.

I don't like the gloss - especially on a hunting or military rifle - and so I want to knock it down to a dull satin-type finish on a few of the stocks I have done.

I would appreciate knowing what the experts think is the best way to do that.

Thanks.

A fine grained"scratch pattern" breaks up the reflected light from the shiny surface, giving a satin appearance. White scotchbrite[no abrasive added to it] lubricated with mineral oil and rubbed gently over the surface, being especially gentle around any sharp edges, would be a fairly safe thing to try. A stock maker finished a stock for me once , when I asked him if he could dull it down a bit, he took 0000 steel wool, sprayed some WD 40 on it, and started scrubbing. It did dull it down, but looke a little scratchy...

Just fooling around on one refinish job, I used the steel wool approach, and got the "scratchy" look, which I didn't like - it came out very rough and basically ugly.

The Scotchbrite seems like it might be a good idea. Thanks.

Here is my method FWIW, I first de-gloss with 0000 steel wool, followed by a good rub down with dry burlap, apply a coat of hard wax with burlap then polish with a cotton cloth. Nice glow instead of shine is the result on a about any finish. --- John 303.

I've used scotchbrite as well as pumice

Please be careful with the steel wool. It can embed into the finish. When that happens add a little humidity and all of a sudden you have tiny little black spots.

I buff them out after laying on many coats of oil. (sand of course between layers) There are many buffing compounds - use ones without any wax. Something like the stuff to remove oxidised paint is the about the finest grit to go. It is surprising how course you can get. Brownells and Midway sells a stock buffing compound that works very nicely btw.

Now that you have all those scratches messing up the surface, time to fill them up and add a protective coating. A carnauba wax is usually best. Beeswax is water proof, but doesn't get anywhere near as hard as the non-water proof Carnauba (it is a trade off). The wax fills the scratches most of the way to give a wonderful gloss and the wax is ablative to help protect the finish. Just re-wax occasionally to get rid of finger prints and other smudges.

This is how I do it,
Chris

I like to use rottenstone mixed with mineral oil or mineral spirits. I think Birchwood Casey's Stock Sheen and Conditioner is pretty much a store bought version of the same. It works pretty well.

Many years ago I used Flecto Varathane Tung Oil Danish Finish (still have an eight oz can of it) after finely sanding raw wood of a new walnut stock. Hand rubbed multiple coats, allowing to thoroughly dry between coats. Got a nice satin finish, no shine at all. Very pleased with the result; it has held up very well and still looks good. Do not know if product, in this particular brand, is still available. But I would think someone else makes the same thing.

paste of bon ami and mineral spirits rubbed in small circles with cheesecloth.

the easiest, quickest, best looking sheen, way that i have found after a life time of working with wood and finishing furniture and things i built is a scotchbrite pad and johnsons paste wax as a lubricant. wipe it down when rubbing and let it sit for a few minutes for the wax to harden, then polish it out with a clean dry cloth ( i save my old socks for that) i've toned down both gloss polies and laquers with this method and the results have always been just the right amount of sheen to show of the grain without being too reflective. a more slightly more satin(the johnsons does add some shine) finish can be had by wiping the piece down with a fairly wet rag of spirits after the rub down. it cleans the johnsons off completely and leaves just the rubbed raw surface of poly or laquer. let that raw surface cure for a day before putting the gun back into sevice.

note - if you'er going the scotchbrite way watch the different grades - some can get awfully coarse and aggressive

quote:

Originally posted by butchloc:
note - if you'er going the scotchbrite way watch the different grades - some can get awfully coarse and aggressive

Is this the voice of experience?

Thank you, gentlemen, and also to those who have replied off line.

Now all I have to do is find some superfine Scotchbrite . . .

I have also used rottenstone and diffrent grads of pumice mixed with oil or water. I have tried the Birchwood Casey stock shean in the past on hand rubbed true oil finish. However I was never able to obtain the satin look. You can try different grades of pumice to get the look you want. Start with the fine grade and work up.

quote:

Posted 12 January 2010 22:46 Hide Post

quote:
Originally posted by butchloc:
note - if you'er going the scotchbrite way watch the different grades - some can get awfully coarse and aggressive

Is this the voice of experience? Big Grin

absolutely!! we use about 4 different grades in our shop to polish various metals with. (and here you thought if had messed up a stock didn't you )

Best results when rubbing out any oil finish are obtained on a thoroughly cured finish. I usually wait a month, but then I am extra-cautious.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Famil...bbing-Compounds.aspx

Duane Wiebe had posted about using oil and Rottenstone for the finishing touches to an oil finish. I tried it and it works wonderfully to give you a nice satin finish. Try some oil and rottenstone, it is pretty mild so you can rub it until you get the desired reduction in shine.

quote:

Originally posted by merlinron:
the easiest, quickest, best looking sheen, way that i have found after a life time of working with wood and finishing furniture and things i built is a scotchbrite pad and johnsons paste wax as a lubricant. wipe it down when rubbing and let it sit for a few minutes for the wax to harden, then polish it out with a clean dry cloth ( i save my old socks for that) i've toned down both gloss polies and laquers with this method and the results have always been just the right amount of sheen to show of the grain without being too reflective. a more slightly more satin(the johnsons does add some shine) finish can be had by wiping the piece down with a fairly wet rag of spirits after the rub down. it cleans the johnsons off completely and leaves just the rubbed raw surface of poly or laquer. let that raw surface cure for a day before putting the gun back into sevice.

I do something similar. I used the spray can finish on my 505 stock and it leaves an orange peel surface that is very hard. I use the white polishing compound from the auto store and rub it with 600 grit wet or dry to flatten the surface. It leaves a whitish flat finish that I rub out with johnson's to a beautiful low luster sheen.

I used a very little rottenstone, and rubbed it lightly with a cotton cloth over the well-cured finish on one of my stocks. I used paraffin oil as a lubricant.

I followed that with another cloth slightly dampened with mineral spirits to rinse the rottenstone off the stock.

It worked perfectly to de-gloss the finish.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

Call your local painter supply store. I remember reading years ago about something you add to the liquid finish that will dull the glossy finish.

MR, you used the right stuff.

Mike ; That's flattening agent silica gel - Silicon Dioxide .

Mrlexma ; Don't forget to apply a quality wax over the stock as you have now broken or opened surface of

your finish . This ensures it seals and stays protected .

Remember the most durable high quality finishes are Extreme gloss coatings . So it's necessary to dull

them down for most stock projects as no one likes that plastic look . just remember to either Oil and wax

or at least wax when finished .