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Barrel Stamping Repair
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I took a nice little Beretta 28ga in trade recently. A previous owner stamped his name on the top of the barrels near the receiver.

Is there a way to repair this short of removing the bluing entirly, polishing and re-bluing the barrels??

[IMG:left] [/IMG]

Best;
Brett
 
Posts: 1181 | Registered: 08 August 2001Reply With Quote
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No. Not if you want it completely gone and the bluing to match. You could send it to an engraver to change the initials to yours; he will erase the stamps and engrave whatever you want in that place; and leave it bright. You can also peen in the initials and cold blue it but that will never be perfect.
 
Posts: 17332 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Thanks so much dpcd!

Any idea what it would cost to fix it correctly, re-blue etc?

Brett
 
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If you're lucky, and the stamping isn't too deep, it can be polished out with 320 grit, and the bright spot can be rust blued to match the rest of the gun. Might leave a visible ripple in the barrel. Doubles are usually rust blued, as the hot salts bath will dissolve the solder between the barrels.


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Posts: 209 | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With Quote
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It is very hard to match a rust blue spot. I send all my stuff to Craftguard in Waterloo IA. Rust bluing is $189. Filing and polishing off the initials will be free if you do it; it is easy.
 
Posts: 17332 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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dpcd

Would you briefly describe the file and polish operation? And thanks so much for you help!!!

Best;
Brett
 
Posts: 1181 | Registered: 08 August 2001Reply With Quote
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laser welding?


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Posts: 4025 | Registered: 28 May 2004Reply With Quote
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I do not know what laser welding is. TIG and MIG yes. If you welded the initials over you would still have to re-blue it. Filing and polishing? You take a file and file out the stamping, draw file it maintaining all original contours of the barrel. Then use emery cloth strips to polish it. No need to go above about 400 grit since rust blue etches the metal anyway. If it is stamped really deep then it might be hard to do and keep the contours right; can't tell without looking at it. Post a picture.
 
Posts: 17332 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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you will refinish but laser weld would be the way to go. talk talk to a jeweler about it
 
Posts: 13463 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys. I'll post a picture this afternoon.
 
Posts: 1181 | Registered: 08 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Check this picture out half way down the page. It was posted a week ago. http://forums.accuratereloadin...461025191#6461025191


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Posts: 5256 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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Here is the post from Custombolt's thread:
quote:
Originally posted by JBrown:
Here are the photos. In person it looks perfect, but when the photo is taken with the light at just the right angle and the photo is enlarged you can see where the original 6 was. Just the same, I doubt anyone would be able to see it without some type of magnification.

I hate to advertise for Dennis because I always seem to have a couple of projects on the way to him, but I must say, he is darn good.





Seriously, I would send it to Dennis long before I would take a file to it myself. Trust me, I have messed-up enough stuff to know better than to try to do it myself.


Jason

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Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt.

Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry
Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure.

-Jason Brown
 
Posts: 6838 | Location: Nome, Alaska(formerly SW Wyoming) | Registered: 22 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks again for all the responses.

I've added a picture to my original post if that helps...

Best;
Brett
 
Posts: 1181 | Registered: 08 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Me, I'd glue a windage & elevation chart over it. Big Grin

Looks like it was done at a trophy shop. The "engraving" should be very light, that should help.




Aut vincere aut mori
 
Posts: 4865 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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That was pantograph engraved; not stamped, which makes it much easier to remove. Piece of cake.
 
Posts: 17332 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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dpcd,

How to do it???

Thanks again for your help!

Brett
 
Posts: 1181 | Registered: 08 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Well, you could change your name to Mike Disanza... Wink

Dress the engraved area with a fine file, then strike off with progressive grits of wet-or-dry paper backed with a hard surface, then send it off to someone who can finish polish and blue your barrels. It's a nice shotgun and well worth the reblue. Or just leave it as is and adjust the price accordingly when it comes time to sell.


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Posts: 39 | Location: East Tennessee | Registered: 23 September 2011Reply With Quote
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Yeah, do what he said to do. If you do not know how to use a file correctly, do not touch it.
 
Posts: 17332 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Maybe you could add "BUGGERS UP PERFECTLY GOOD GUNS LIKE THIS ONE WITH STUPID LASER ENGRAVING" after the fellow's name?

A more radical solution would be to have some sort of scrollwork on each side to mask it after it has been removed?

Something like oooOOO000OOOooo or similar. Like the "chicken guts" that you US Civil War officers wore on their coat cuffs?
 
Posts: 6823 | Location: United Kingdom | Registered: 18 November 2007Reply With Quote
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