Anybody have any luck using any of the locktite products for attaching front sights on a rifle. I'd imagine it would work well with a banded, what about un banded? I've heard of black max but I think its only good to 200 degrees which would mean attaching it after its blued.
If you never take your rifle into the field and plan never to bump it against anything, ever, then, yes, glue will work. For me, I have to plan for the worse case, and that means screws or solder. Banded sights have setscrews to hold them. I solder them on too.
Posts: 17374 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009
Loctite makes hundreds of different formulations...at least one for any purpose you can dream up....including holding together supersonic jet fighters. There are a bunch of their products which will work as well as solder for holding on sights. Rarely seen at retailers but there and available. You might want to give them a call and speak with a sales rep about a "sample" for you to test in lieu of silver solder.
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Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001
Black max will withstand hot immersion bluing at well over 200*. Infact I believe Duane Weibe or Butch Lambert said they had to turn off a part because he couldn't get it detatched with heat.
Originally posted by ab_bentley: Black max will withstand hot immersion bluing at well over 200*. Infact I believe Duane Weibe or Butch Lambert said they had to turn off a part because he couldn't get it detatched with heat.
Yup, Duane. I would not trust a sit-on sight vs banded with glue only. Solder is still your friend for reliability coupled with mechanical. Just an observation, as usual.
Solder; Just like they used at the Mauser factory. Only now you can use lead free stuff. No glue for me to affix sights onto barrels even if it does work as well.
Posts: 17374 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009
The problem with Loc-Tite products is that most of them lose integrity at 200F but there are a few that go to 300F and even to 400F before losing integrity.
Some are made to fill gaps up to .030 while others only a few thousandths. They are plastic, meaning that they are prone to move and flow under heat and pressure.
I would rather see solder used. It holds up to 800F and is not sensitive to solvents and oils. You would have to talk to a rep to see if they have something that would take the temps and the solvents / oils on a gun.
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Posts: 639 | Location: SE WA. | Registered: 05 February 2004
Actually the solder used on guns melts at far lower than 800, but it doesn't matter; it is the right method. Of course glue will work but that is not the point. Tradition is, to me. I admit I do have a Hawken rifle that I epoxyed the under rib on in 1976 and it is still holding well but I have not done that since.
Posts: 17374 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009
With Loctite products, as with any other form of binder, one needs to get the right product for the purpose at hand. IIRC a Loctite adhesive was used in the construction of the wings on the SR-71 Blackbird. That sucker at speeds of Mach II and above was red hot from air friction, and the Loctite held just fine. No one needs that adhesive for working on guns...they just need to browse the Loctite catalogues and pick one with the right setting time, temp range, sheer strength, and so on for the things they want to do.
My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still.
Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001
Fine, but the way I read the OP's question was whether it would work or not, not who wants to use it.
The answer is "Yes, it will work fine if you use the correct one."
If you try to use "Red" or "Blue" Loctite commonly sold in hardware stores for securing screws in their threaded holes, probably "No, it won't work for long."
Solders will work for those with skill enough to do a good solder job. But for those who don't have that skill, or who don't have the time to go through that process, why not just use something easy which works?
Everyone makes their own choices and dances with their own devils. No right nor wrong in that; just the way it is.
Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001
I think I'll get some 380 and maybe some other formulations and do some experiments with them. If its not satisfactory I'll use the tried and true solder.
We use industrial forms of loctite in the Tool & Die trade quite often. I PROMISE you, if you had a bottle of the green loctite we use you could not beat or heat your front sight off without destroying the barrel.
Up to the user of course, but it is probably faster than silver soldering, never tried. Might have to try one now! Wouldn't try it on a big bore, but smaller calibers I do not know why it would be an issue.
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I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
Posts: 1513 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010
