I'm redoing another Ruger M77 stock and its got some dark discoloration up around the tang area and I'm guessing its probably gun oil stains. What would be the best/easiest way to remove those stains? I thought about hot soapy water.

No, don't use soapy water. That will swell the wood and raise the grain. Whiting (calcium carbonate) is a time tested absorbent for oils in gun stocks. Simply mix the powder with ethyl alcohol (180 proof Everclear is a good choice) and paint it on the oil-soaked area. Apply heat and watch the oil be sucked out of the wood.

http://www.sciencecompany.com/...ting-1-lb-P6641.aspx

Is there a common variety/product with calcium carbonate? Do you mix it with the everclear or drink the everclear? Should I not use isopropyl alcohol?

Acetone, lacquer thinner, or toluene will also work. A full line paint store should carry whiting.

Acetone and whiting or talc mixed to a thin paste works well also.

I've successfully removed oil from the tang area of stocks by taking a clean lacquer thinner can, tapping a hole in the cap with a nail, filling the can 3/4's full with water, placing the can on a hotplate then bathing the tang area in the resulting steam jet. Steam/wipe, steam/wipe, etc.

Screw the cap on loosely.

Following up with the above methods will do a thorough job, I expect.

This is a good method to raise dents, also.

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Originally posted by cobrajet:
Is there a common variety/product with calcium carbonate? Do you mix it with the everclear or drink the everclear? Should I not use isopropyl alcohol?

Well, if inclined, you can actually do both! Yes, you mix the Everclear with the Whiting to make a thin paste (gravy like) and then "paint" that onto the oily areas of the stock. Apply heat and drive the oil out of the wood. It's hard for me to imagine cheaper whiting than $5 a pound. But, if you have connections with your local high school football team, you might be able to acquire some sideline chalk which is the same thing. A jigger of everclear and a ounce of ginger beer over ice makes a good "toddy" while you are applying the heat.

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180 proof Everclear is a good choice

What a waste.

I used denatured and DE it worked fine for removing oil.

Had a gunsmith that used oven cleaner worked real well

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Originally posted by Zephyr:
Had a gunsmith that used oven cleaner worked real well

turns the oil/grease into soap

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Originally posted by tin can:

quote:

Originally posted by Zephyr:
Had a gunsmith that used oven cleaner worked real well

turns the oil/grease into soap

Only works on surface oils and greases. Does nothing for imbedded of same. My chemistry professor in college taught me things tend to go from where the are to where they are not. If you place a poultice of calcium carbonate (chalk/whiting) next to oil/grease saturated wood, and apply a little heat to add energy to the equation, the previously mentioned will tend to migrate into the chalk. I have seen it work dozens of times.

I just finished two shotgun stock sets. I use a large aluminum baking pan and acetone cover it tightly with al foil and let it set for 24 hours. Then change out the acetone if it is dark, and let it set for another 24 hours. It does not hurt to let them soak in denatured alcohol for a day or so after wards seem to harden the wood and will swell a little I think due to the water content in the alcohol. After letting them dry for a day both sets were oil free. This method works really well if you plan on chasing the checkering.
This is the best method I have found I have never really liked whiting it makes a mess and I never had real good luck with it other than the shop looking like a snow storm hit.
A rifle stock might be a different problem getting a pan big enough.

I have cleaned old trunks by wiping down with MEK. I imagine it would work as well.

Diatomaceous earth. Available at most swimming pool supply stores.