How hard is it to change a firing pin spring on a Kimber 84?

Why do you want to change one?

I am experiencing light primer strikes on all rounds and misfires on about 2 out of 50 rounds. Have already thoroughly cleaned and lubed bolt. The rifle has worked fine for many years and this just started up. Already bought a replacement spring and want to change it out before our hunt in Argentina next month.

Of course light primer strikes and misfires are not good.

Check that the headspace is not too long.

I looked at my 84M's bolt and it does not look easy to take the spring off.

Do you know how to do it?

G'Day Fella's,

Blacktailer, if I were you, I'd contact Kimber, and let them know about this problem!

Hope that helps

Doh!
Homer

Headspace shouldn't be an issue because these are once fired necksized reloads out of this same rifle and no I haven't tried it with factory rounds since I haven't fired a factory shell in over 30 years. I've been reloading for over 40 so know how to adjust sizers
The strikes on the primers are definitely light and sometimes they will go off when they are retried and sometimes not.
Kimbers evidently have a reputation for weak firing pin springs as I have learned over the past week or so since I have been researching this.
Maybe I'm wrong but I can't believe changing a spring is rocket science and I just don't want to booger anything up. If I don't get an answer by tomorrow I'll go see what kind of turn around I can get from my local smith. Sometimes I can get him to do stuff while I wait and I can't imagine this being over a 15 minute job.

Is this an original Kimber of Oregon 84? (Don't you just hate it when two different companies produce two different rifles and use the same name for both of them?)

I have a K of O in .223 which is light on the pin drop and sometimes misfires with harder brands of primers. I simply use primers which on which the cups are not as hard/thick, which seems to solve the problem. What kind of primers are you using? CCI's are pretty hard.

I's a Kimber of NY.
After much research on the internet it turns out this is a common problem with Kimbers.
Turns out this is a simple 5 minute operation. Kimber sells springs and so does Wolf which are less than $9 and stronger. The one I got from Kimber was about 2 inches longer at rest than the spring I took out and was about $14.
To change the spring you need to back off the 1/16 allen screw on the bottom of the cocking piece. Now the slotted screw head on the back of the bolt is actually the aft end of the firing pin. Turn it right handed as if you were tightening a screw with a skinny screwdriver and it will thread all the way through the cocking piece and the spring can then be replaced.
It takes a bit of doing to put the new spring on and a vise and an extra pair of hands to push the firing pin with the new spring on it through the bolt shroud and hold the cocking piece against the threads as you turn the firing pin but it can be done. Don't forget that you are now turning the firing pin as if you were loosening a screw!
Now reset your firing pin protrusion and tighten the allen and it is fixed.
I fired the shells that had previously not worked and the primer hits look like my M70.