You know the bake on finishs that brownells sells, how does it affect the tempering of the metal to bake the barreled action in the oven? I think I read one required baking at 350 for a while. Is it too low a temp to matter?

Thanks all.

Red

Dago,

350 degree temperatures are well within the safe range for receivers and bolts.

Malm

thanks. I also should have asked, how difficult is it to remove this finish later on? I am going to try my hand at rust bluing, but that won't be fore a few months at least, and then I won't be comfortable to do a whole rifle for a while. I am trying to debate whether to do the bake on or pay and have somebody else do the bluing.

There tends to be a rust problem at my place for some reason, way too much moisture I guess.

Red

I also should have asked, how difficult is it to remove this finish later on?

I used the Bake on teflon stuff on a M12 tht was used in a salt marsh. It did not hold up. Ended up parkerizing the thing.

Dago,

Were it me, I would leave the bake on crap for kitchen ware. I wouldn't worry about it being too hard to remove, I hear tell from folks that some of the stuff comes off when you least expect it.


Good luck,

Malm

I've got Gunkote finish on my 275 Rigby and so far so good. It looks pretty good also, no scratches or anything but it hasn't seen any sever use so far.

Dago,

As you have already heard, the problem will not be getting it off, but keeping it on!

Todd

Well, I am going to not have it out of the safe much. It is my 458win, so other than trips to the range it won't be hunted with any time soon. Am I better served just waxing it and letting it stay in the white until time for bluing?

Red

Dago Red,

If you're not going to blue it right away, then you might want to coat it with something. I've used Birchwood Casey's Sheath and automotive wax. The important thing is to avoid exposure to those things which promote corrosion like, salt spray, finger prints, blood, soft drinks, fire, rain. Just keep it wiped down with a lightly oiled rag and it should hold up just fine.

Good luck,

Malm

Let me take a crack at steering you away from the bake-on stuff.

I tried Brownells bake-on finish. It is brittle. After removing the factory finish from my aluminum Ruger 10/22 receiver, cleaning it thoroughly (degreasing too), and carefully following Brownells' directions for application and baking of their finish; I had a not-too-bad looking receiver. When I attached scope bases, the crappy Brownells' bake-on finish cracked and flaked around the edges of the bases

I don't mind so much having a gun that looks as if it was finished with spray paint. I hate having a gun that looks as if it was finished with crappy, low-quality, flaky spray paint. Come to think of it, I would have been better off using regular spray paint than Brownells' product. Spray paint is softer, so it wouldn't flake off, and at least I would know how to get it off if I didn't like it.

H. C.

Not to muitiny against the elders here, but I have had good results with baking regular black spray paint lacquer at 300 then letting cool. It makes a hard finish that holds up pretty darn well all things considered, and can be removed easily when you are ready to put a proper finish on it. When the finish is hot in the oven it is rather soft so I use the kitchen oven then turn it off and let it sit overnight. I think 300 degrees works just fine.

[ 06-05-2003, 21:09: Message edited by: MarkWhite ]

FWIW,

Years ago I camo'd a Mauser sporter with flat Krylon spray paint and other than the occasional touch up never had the first problem.

A few years ago I tried doing just the barrel on a M77 with the Brownell's bake on stuff and it was very bad to flake off if bumped against anything. I ended up Krylon-ing that barrel.

One gent I met advised me that he'd had very good luck with the Molly based Spray and Bake, so I've ordered a can for my rebarrelled Mauser. From what I've heard it's very important to degrease the parts being coated.

We'll see how that works

Rick

I've played with all these coatings and GunKote seems to be the best! The Brownell's stuff is crap! Save your money and have the gun HOT Cautic/Nitrate blued. Rust Blueing is nice, but requires lots of practice and work till you get to a stage where the work is remotely presentable. I think a Bad rust blue looks even worse than "cheap flaky laqueur". A good hot tank Blue will do wonders for your gun and save you endless grief!-Rob