install a takeoff barrel from a righthand action onto a lefthand action.

Both actions are new 'pre-'64-style' Model 70 actions with controlled-round feed.

Thanks,
George

George,
I think you might get by with cutting the barrel shoulder back a half turn so the extractor cut is in the right place on the other side and then rechamber. All the old info will be underneath so you will hve to put the round desingation back on the barrel.

Good luck.

Thanks, Chic. I'm getting close to putting that .416 barrel you sold me on one of my 'spare' LH M-70s.

George

I am NOT a Winchester owner but know about the extractor cut. What would be wrong with just cutting another slot on the left side for use on a left-handed rifle?
Jay

Good question. Would it create a 'weak point' for gas to escape in the event of case hear or primer rupture?

George

[ 09-24-2003, 04:51: Message edited by: GeorgeS ]

That cone is there to assist feeding. The nose of the round coming from the left rail may plow directly into that old cut. Better to keep it as it was designed and recut the cone and new extractor position. Besides, it looks better.

Good luck,

Malm

[ 09-24-2003, 22:46: Message edited by: G.Malmborg ]

Malm,

Is there usually enough shank on a factory barrel to do this safely? How much has to be cut off, the entire threaded portion?

George

[ 09-24-2003, 23:13: Message edited by: GeorgeS ]

George,

You would only need to redo the cone section. To clear the cone and properly index the barrel TDC, this will require about 4 threads or .250 inch. Piece of cake.

You will need to measure the cylinder portion of the barrel you are going to use, from the shoulder back to the begining of the taper to see if there is enough to do this. Most standard weight classic barrels will easily accomodate this much set back, but the light weight barrels generally won't.

There are a couple of benefits to doing this. Setting the barrel back .250 inch will allow you to do something good with the existing throat and you get to tighten up the headspace some. Winner on all accounts...

Good luck,

Malm

George,
You ought to cut off the entire threaded portion and rethread and make the extractor cut where needed from scratch.

I suspect your .416 barrel is not featherweight contour, but of the medium/heavy sporter contour. It has plenty of shank. You will also wind up with a barrel closer to 23", kind of neat, for a .416, IMO.

I have had a .375 H&H barrel cut off at the threaded portion and completely rethreaded, and then chambered for .375 RUM. This was necessary to thread it metric for a CZ 550, and it worked great.

The factory extractor cut often has a sharp edge that can indeed catch the nose of a soft point and cause a jam. This is one way the M-70 Classic is inferior to the old Pre-64. The extractors and extractor cuts ARE different. But not insurmountable.

Any extractor cut on the new M-70 Classic action needs to have that offending edge beveled/rounded slightly, so the softpoint will slip by smoothly on its way to the chamber.

Aye, gotta cut all the threads off and start over. Otherwise you have a botched job as in the photo shown in this post: http://www.nookhill.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=005886#000003

If you do not cut off all the threads, you will be left with the factory undercut portion that limits the length of threads. Not too safe!!!

(There is a way to thread barrels without turning the thread relief groove, the advantage of doing this is if the barrel ever has to be set back in the future, makes things a lot simpler. Very important in target rifles that are fired a lot and the barrel is set back to freshen up the throat.)

And, unless you have a generous full diameter barrel breech end, you will be left with a short funny looking breech just in front of the receiver.

Another very important fact: The M70 Classic is limited in receiver thread strength due to the silly manner in which the lug raceways are broached, so anything done to reduce the thread length on the barrel shank is a no-no. Including having two extractor cuts. As mentioned in the post above, two extractor cuts will cause mucho feeding problems.

If there is enough cylinder to recut the entire shank then of course that would be the best way to go. However if there isn't enough cylinder for a whole new shank, then it is a simple process to pick up and extend the threads beyond the factory relief groove. Had this been done to the example barrel in the photo, you could have saved it.

Malm

Thanks to all who replied!

George

George, no offense intended to your question, but I have been through too many projects that were done halfway or were make-do projects to consider anything other than doing it completely right the first time. May I suggest purchasing new barrels and putting those take-off barrels on e-bay?

Hope it works out well no matter which course you pursue.

Thanks for looking out for me, 500grains.

The barrels I have awaiting installation don't have the extractor cuts, so I am okay there. I was just wondering about this since I often see/hear about some pretty nice barrels that were removed from RH M-70s or Dakotas.

I hoped it would be an easy way to play with some chamberings that I might not try otherwise.

George