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Immitation Pyrex warning
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I was doing some hot water blueing yesterday. Not to P.O. the wife I went to the local chain drug store and bought two glass loaf pans. While working both of them broke. They shattered into pieces. One after I dumped out the hot water the other while filled with solution and parts. The solution was one that contained mecuric chloride. It made my bench into a little hazmat site. Only use real Pyrex!!!
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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If you're gonna do it like that, try using a G.I. ammo can. Works great!! I've blued more parts like that than I care to remember.
 
Posts: 1021 | Location: Prineville, OR 97754 | Registered: 14 July 2002Reply With Quote
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try using a G.I. ammo can. Works great!!

Good idea, any problems from the paint inside the can? I useally degrease initially with acetone, then "Dawn" second. Wouldn't the acetone eat up the paint?

I genrally use the old Baker's formula "express blue". There is almost no tollerence for any oil. What do you use to degrease?


Scot
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Yeah, sorry about that. Didn't mention the sandblast treatment to the can prior to use. For cleaner on small parts or short run stuff, it's pretty hard to beat acetone. We use Du-lite's cleaner in our hot tanks, but then again, we do a lot of blueing.
Those cans are cheap and easy to get a hold of. The best ones are for the 50 millimeter cannon rounds. They have the pull off lid, and are nice and deep, with plenty of room side to side. Any army surplus can set you up.
 
Posts: 1021 | Location: Prineville, OR 97754 | Registered: 14 July 2002Reply With Quote
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